This month's selection includes a bit of short rib heaven in Hackney Wick, a retro crisps and martini pairing in Mayfair and some very bouji chicken nuggets.
Hon’s BBQ (Hackney Wick) - Beef short ribs with Sichuan peppercorn sauce
After a successful crowdfunding, Hon's BBQ is already settling in nicely at Hackney Wick. Look out for a full Test Drive soon, but in the meantime we'll tell you that this short rib was one of the best we've ever tried...
Brutes (Mayfair) - Martinis and Monster Munch
There was a lot of talk about this Mayfair bar serving up old-school crisps alongside its top-tier martinis. But we’re here to tell you that there’s something about those pickled onion Monster Munches that pair perfectly with the umami notes of a dirty martini, particularly when they’re as good as the ones being poured out at Brutes.
Fink’s at Clissold House (Stoke Newington) - Mini crumpets with sour cream and caviar
Fink’s celebrated their first summer after taking over the capacious Clissold House in Clissold Park with a summer bash on one of the hottest days of the year. We popped along for glasses of St John Beausoleil Rosé poured from their picnic pouches and some of these very moreish party crumpets.
The Devonshire (Soho) - Skirt steak, duck fat chips, bearnaise
A return trip to The Devonshire saw us having their set menu for the first time. We know it hasn't changed much since the restaurant launched but it remains one of the very best deals in Soho for the sheer quality of what you get for under £30, with a sometimes tricky cut of steak seasoned and cooked just perfectly.
Silva (Mayfair) - Orkney scallop
New head chef Charlie Dilworth has changed almost 90% of the dishes on the menu at Mayfair restaurant Silva. A good example of his new Mediterranean menu is this giant Orkney scallop served on a bed of caramelised Tropea onions and in a pool of ‘nduja butter. Happily, Charlie and his team also do great focaccia here, which is what you’ll need to soak up all that spicy sauce.
Tavern (Shoreditch) - mini brown butter cakes
So we were a little late to the party at Tavern, heading in to review it a few months after opening, but we think that gave us a little time to take stock of it free from the hype. What we can say with certainty is that anyone coming here would kick themselves if they don’t at least order a couple of these insanely good cakes for dessert. Topped with panela sugar and creme fraiche Chantilly, they are perfect cake pops.
Cocodaq pop-up at Lucky Cat (Mayfair) - Chicken nuggets with caviar
For just two weeks this summer, it was a whole lot easier for Londoners to try the pimped-up chicken nuggets from NYC hit Coqodaq after they brought them to Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat in Mayfair for a fortnight’s pop-up to coincide with Wimbledon. We know these have been done before, but there was something about this Korean/American serving with a generous amount of Petrossian caviar that hit the mark. Will they come back with a permanent place? We'll have to see...
La Maritxu (Carnaby) - Cheesecake matcha
Basque cheesecake specialists La Maritxu launched a new cloud drink range for the summer. And, as there’s nothing we like more than a new matcha to try, we hotfooted it to their Kingly Street store to check it out. We can attest that this particular summer drink is like the lovechild from a Spanish holiday romance. It really is a baked cheesecake you can drink and we’re 100% behind that.
RH Mayfair (Mayfair) - Lobster and king crab rolls
While the issues over chaotic service rumble on at RH Mayfair, the thing worth noting is that, when you finally get your order, the food really is delicious. These miniature seafood rolls in warm, buttery toasted brioche buns were the perfect snack (and would go very well with one of their martinis).
Rosina (Wandsworth) - risotto bianco
It’s nothing but the best for the folks of Wandsworth, and at Adam Byatt’s new Wandsworth restaurant it’s Riso Buono's Carnaroli Gran Riserva rice which is the star of the show and really makes this a signature dish worth ordering. For £20 this is a bowlful of heaven that’s honestly a London bargain. We’d go back tomorrow for another go at it.
Johnny Boy’s (Stoke Newington) - Patty melt
It was 32C in London when we pushed open the door to this LA-inspired diner in Stoke Newington to discover that, to our delight, it was properly air-conditioned. That means we could order whatever we wanted without thinking it would push us over the edge on a heatwave day. And we’re so glad we did because this patty melt, made on milk bread, was divine. Stacked with onions and a combo of Swiss and American cheese, it’s a messy beast, but worth the dry cleaning bills.
Ebi (Clerkenwell) - Hirashi tomatoes and Japanese wine
Sticking with the heatwave theme, this iced tomato salad at the seriously hyped up new wine bar Ebi was just the ticket on a hot day. We beat the crowds by pitching up on opening day and had this bowl of tomatoes paired with a glass of Koshu from Grace Wines in the foothills of Mount Fuji.
Kinz (Notting Hill) - Slow-cooked chicken on spiced rice with minced lamb mixed nuts
The jaw-dropping room is probably Kinz's biggest attraction, but we also loved this dish. Once the very rich chicken jus is mixed in, it's like a rice, chicken and lamb stew in just the very best way.
Berners Tavern (Fitzrovia) - Eggs Benedict
A return trip to Berners Tavern reminded us just how absolutely beautiful this dining room is. Paired with a decent eggs Benedict, it's a great way to start the day.
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