The dining room of the Grand Divan at Simpson's.
We've been hearing a lot about the reopening of Simpson's in the Strand. It's taken a while, hasn't it?
The revival of this historic London restaurant certainly has taken longer than restaurateur Jeremy King would probably have liked. The news that he had bought it broke back in 2022. So it's taken almost four long years to get this Grade II listed institution up and running again. But when you're dealing with a listed building, almost everything takes longer than expected.
Here's a bit of back story. Simpson's has been around since 1828, when it first opened as a cigar bar and chess room (the restaurant came later in 1848). It quickly became one of London's classic establishments. But more recently, there was a decline in its fortunes and it closed "for refurbishment" during Covid, and didn't reopen.
But if there's anyone who can take on an enterprise like this (as he did with the old Atlantic restaurant, turning it into Brasserie Zedel), it's Jeremy King.
We're presuming it's on the Strand?
Yes, the name does give it away. You'll find Simpson's at the eastern section of The Strand, just a few doors past The Savoy. It's equidistant from Charing Cross, Covent Garden and Temple tubes, so very easy to get to.
You can't really miss the entrance...
Where should we meet friends for a drink first?
You have a choice of two bars in the building. For a pre-dinner drink, we'd say to head upstairs to Simpson's Bar on the first floor. This is a very beautiful cocktail bar, overlooking the Strand, and the perfect spot for a pre-prandial martini, which all of the Jeremy King restaurants do very well. If you wanted just to pop in here for a drink and a bar snack, it's also an extremely handy new addition to this part of town: bar snacks include Lancashire cheese puffs and smoked salmon oatcakes.
The upstairs bar is a real looker.
There are two restaurants here. Which one did you go to?
Simpson's in the Strand does have two restaurants, each with a distinct identity. Still to open at the time of writing is Romano's, up on the first floor. That's more of a casual all-day spot (very Zedel-like, we're thinking). On the ground floor is their Grand Divan, and this is the restaurant that most people will think of whenever Simpson's is mentioned. The dining room is all wood panelling, ornate plastered ceilings and chandeliers, with the famous carvery trolleys doing the rounds.
Where should we sit?
The favoured tables are definitely the booths on either side, and particularly those on the right-hand side as you walk in. With high banquettes, they're perfect for anyone looking for a discreet place to lunch (or discuss cabinet matters/dine with someone you don't necessarily want to be seen with). We did think that the tables in the centre were pretty close together - we had to get a waiter to move the tables to get in and out.
And what are we having to eat?
The menu (or bill of fare, as it is here, complete with HM Bateman cartoon on the front) is a bit of a beast. We counted at least five or six sections to it with a pies and pudding of the day option, a cold table section of cold cuts and smoked salmon and salads, as well as a dinner-only special of a whole rabbit fricassee for two to share.
Here's what we tried:
The Grand Divan Prawn Cocktail (£18.75). There is a half pint of prawns option, but this is a very pretty alternative featuring prawns, sliced avocado and served with buttered brown bread and sauce Marie Rose.
Russian Salad (£11.50) - we're absolute suckers for a good Russian salad, and this one was a rather beautiful version, complete with unbilled egg on top.
Grilled Bacon Chop (£35) - a classic Jeremy King-style restaurant dish you may have seen on the menu at The Wolseley City, served with two fried duck eggs and devilled sauce.
Hold up. You are having the carvery aren't you?
Of course, the real reason that many people are coming here is to behold the famous Simpson's in the Strand carvery trolley in action. The Hot Trolley, as it's called on the menu, involves the trolley pulling up to your table, where slices of Roast Rib of Devonshire beef are then carved for you. Obviously, we had to order it.
The trolley waiter in action
This is then served with all the trimmings - Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and parsnips, carrots and lashings of gravy (and horseradish if you want it). £39.50 with all the added theatrics thrown in for free.
Room for dessert?
At this point, you have a choice. Do you have room for a savoury before you hit up the pudding section? We had been considering the angels on horseback (£10.75 each), which are roasted oysters with bacon. But it seemed like everyone else in the room had had the same idea, so they were sold out.
In the end, we passed over the likes of treacle tart and spotted dick for the following theatrical concoction.
Croquembouche for two (£12.50 per person) - a tower of choux buns, filled with crème diplomate and covered with spun sugar. It turns out we did have room after all, as we demolished this in record time.
After dinner drinks?
If you want to make an evening of it, you could always head downstairs to Nellie's Tavern. This is where designer Shayne Brady (Gallery at The Savoy, The Park) has really been given full rein. He's created a jewel of a bar, channelling Theatreland's aesthetic. The really useful thing to know about Nellie's is that it has a very late licence and a separate entrance, in the Savoy Buildings alleyway beside it.
The more louche Nellie's Tavern downstairs
Overall thoughts:
There is a lot riding on Simpson's. With two restaurants, two bars and a huge events space, not to mention all the extra hassle of working in such a historic building, it's been a massive project for Jeremy King and his team. But we can't think of a restaurateur in London right now who would have been more of a match for this particular challenge.
The space is gorgeous, we loved the theatrics and splendour of the Grand Divan and the bars are a godsend in this part of town. It truly deserves to be a big hit with both Londoners and tourists alike.
More about Simpson's in the Strand
Where is it? 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EW
When does it open? The Grand Divan and the bars are now open, Romano's will open by the end of March.
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @simpsons1828.
Hot Dinners dined as guests of Simpson's. Prices correct at time of publication.
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