Test Driving Kismet, where upstairs at The Globe Tavern is transformed into a must-visit Turkish/Cypriot meyhane

Upstairs at The Globe Tavern is where you'll find Kismet. They've really done wonders to the room up there. 

What can you tell us about Kismet?

This is the latest venture from Dom Handy, the man behind bars and restaurants like Bistro Freddie and Crispin. He's teamed up with ex-Bibi chef Keiran Mustafa for his latest opening, which takes its influences from the chef's own Turkish and Cypriot background to create a London version of a traditional Turkish meyhane (tavern). But unlike Handy's previous openings, this is a year-long residency. 

So where have they set up shop?

Given that Kismet is influenced by Turkish taverns, it's apt that it's opening above a pub. They're the latest to take over the dining room above the Globe Tavern in Borough Market (that's the big pub right opposite Oma and Agora). Just head upstairs, and you'll find them (the entrance is behind a curtain in case you get lost). 

Previous tenants have included Thai residency Khao Bird, which had a very successful restaurant opening in Soho after leaving the pub, and the Cambodian Barang, which is also about to open a permanent place, in Carnaby. 

But if you've visited both of those, you'll have noticed that the look of the room stayed broadly the same for the past residencies. Not this time, as it's had a much bigger overhaul with the table layout completely changing, and design touches throughout (new lights, photos all over the walls and even net curtains!). As such the room has really opened up, giving Kismet its own identity and, in doing so, making it a little more than just the pub's latest residency. 

Where should we go for a drink first?

Obviously, the pub downstairs - although note that it's a separate operation; you can't bring your pints upstairs with you. 

And what's on the menu?

Recently in London we've had Cypriot crossed with Greek food over at Zylia, so there are the odd similarities (no sheftalia here though, alas). Essentially, you're looking at a series of meze, dips and bread, a few small plates and then larger sharing dishes, including kebabs to finish. Right opposite both Oma, Agora and Berenjak, it's difficult not to make some comparisons with what's on offer in the area already, yet Kismet really does manage to create its own space. 

If you're just finding it too hard to choose, there's a set menu which features their best dishes (it's a pretty good deal at £48 per person). Here's what we went for:

On the left is the excellent and absolute must-order Atom (strained yoghurt and chilli butter, £8), and the hummus is on the right (£7). The seasonal vegetable plate works absolutely wonderfully with these, particularly the melon and the atom, a surprising combination that ends up being a perfect match. There is flatbread too (but balanced just out of shot above). 

Bulghur kofetsi (£12) - grilled bulgar shells with a mix of beef and onion inside. Break open and squeeze the lemon over liberally, with the added citrus setting this off just right. 

Fener baligi kebabi (£30) - grilled monkfish with yoghurt and chilli butter. 

Kuzu sis (£26) - Lamb neck kebab, a really tender cut, served over their flatbread. 

The dessert is actually a trio of desserts (for £15) - something I didn't actually realise when turning down the third part which was "seasonal fruit". Oops. But what you have above is pistachio baklava, served warm from the pan with a frankly phenomenal pistachio ice cream that's cut through with salt flakes.

What about drinks?

 There are just a couple of cocktails (negroni or highball, both £11), a good selection of soft options (including the Turkish Uludağ Gazoz), while the wine list is all Turkish, with bottles starting at a pretty reasonable £38.

Overall thoughts

Over the past few weeks of eating out in London, we've had a surprising amount of mezze and kebabs. And although we'd heard good things about Kismet, we were wondering just what it would add to London. It turns out that they've created a buzzy scene up here, backed up with an extremely strong hand in the kitchen and overall making it a really fun night out. It's all delivered very, very well and even a couple of weeks in, it feels right at home in Borough. A permanent space seems assured this time next year, but in the meantime we'd strongly recommend booking a table.