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Test Driving Fenn - a pitch-perfect neighbourhood restaurant in Fulham

roomThe purpose-built terrace at Fenn - where you'd be happy to eat any day of the year.

What can you tell us about Fenn?

It's a new opening in Fulham which comes with an impressive pedigree. It sees the team behind Hackney's Nest, Executive Head Chef Johnnie Crowe and Head Chef Joe Laker behind the menu. Laker has been at Anglo and  other restaurants. Each time he's done wonders with the menu - and that certainly seems to be the case here. 

Where is it?

About halfway down Wandsworth Bridge Road - so it's not that handy for the tube. But it's a pleasant 15-minute stroll from Fulham Broadway station. 

The delay in the opening - as experienced by many restaurants this year - has meant they've had plenty of time to create a lovely alfresco space (as you can see from the picture above). Seating around 10-12, it's extremely cosy, even on a surprisingly chilly early May evening. It's high up our new alfresco spaces that have opened this year list, for sure. Now open inside, it's easy to fall in love with the hewn wooden tables too - there's a really welcoming vibe to the whole place. 

So what kind of food can we expect?

The food focuses on British ingredients and they're showcased front and centre in most of the dishes as are the suppliers that they've cultivated strong relationships with.

There is either a tasting menu or a la carte to choose from, with the emphasis on the former (much like Laker's work at Anglo and Neo Bistro). If it's your first visit, we'd definitely recommend the tasting menu route. It's short - only five courses with a couple of optional extras (Scottish scallop and a cheese course) and comes in at £50 which is very good value for what's on offer. 

Here's how that menu looks (bear in mind this will change with the seasons). 

roomLincolnshire Poacher dumplings and Fenn Fried Chicken with wild garlic mayo. A little snack to get you going. 

roomPotato sourdough & cultured butter. The very best type of sourdough, in our minds.

roomBeef tartare, fermented chilli & smoked oil - a glorious colour and with a chilli hit that's pitched just right

roomHalibut, Cornish crab & sea herbs - a particularly beautifully cooked piece of fish.

roomAged beef, purple sprouting broccoli & pickled walnut - alongside the ever-reliable confit potato.

roomPump street chocolate & yogurt sorbet

What if we decide to veer away from the set menu?

Everything above is available a la carte (some in slightly larger portions like the dumplings), as well as a few extra dishes. So if you're a local, you can revisit without being tied to the same menu (although you're going to want to order those dumplings on every single visit - trust us). We've also heard strong recommendations for the lamb shoulder and barbecued spring salad too (£22). 

You can, of course, add on anything from the a la carte if you fancy - and that's particularly recommended for the following. 

roomNutmeg Custard Tart with rhubarb and nutmeg sorbet (£8). The most perfectly set custard tart we've seen in some time. Highly recommended as one more (shared) course if you're going for the tasting menu as it complements the chocolate well. 

What's the drinks list like? 

Alongside a short wines-by-the-glass list (starting at £5.50 for a 125ml Musita, Catarratto from Sicily, there are also cocktails at £10 (their own takes on classics plus a spritz), a range of gin and tonics and a low/no alcohol section too. But it's well worth a peruse of the proper wine list, a fairly extensive tome that's handily broken down by grapes and all low-intervention, organic and biodynamic. Prices start at £23 and there's a large selection in the late 20s and 30s price point, reading up to circa £200 on the red list if you're splashing out. 

Summing it all up

Our experience of Joe Laker's cooking has always left us coming away impressed and this is no different. The style of cooking seems particularly at home in this West London setting - bringing a style of menu over here that were more used to seeing in the east - and that's a very good thing. Fenn is a great addition to the area - good food, keenly priced, the very measure of a top neighbourhood restaurant. 

 

More about Fenn

Where is it? 194 Wandsworth Bridge Road, Fulham, London SW6 2UF

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @fennfulham

Hot Dinners ate as guests of Fenn. Prices are correct at the time of writing. 

 

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