The sushi counter at Wild Izakaya
So what do we need to know about Wild Izakaya?
The opening of this sushi restaurant in the City caught us quite off guard. There had been no signs at all, until it was literally ready to open its doors. The folks behind it have form for this - they also run Goodman and Wild and also have been involved in Pinna and Krokodilos, which were similarly opened with little advance warning.
What we did know, when we booked a table at the end of its first week of opening, was that the Executive Chef was Satoru Hashimoto. He had formerly headed up the kitchen at Koyn, and before that had spent over a decade at the helm of Nobu. So all the signs were there that this was a restaurant worth checking out.
Where is it?
If you know where Goodman City is, you'll find this right opposite. If you don't, this is on Old Jewry right in the heart of the City. It's pretty much equidistant from Bank and Moorgate tube stations.
Here's what you're looking for - right opposite Goodman City
Where should we meet for a drink first?
There is space for drinks here with some cleverly designed tables for two alongside the main counter, but there is also a proper bar at Goodman just across the road which would be an easy place to meet.
Where should we sit?
The restaurant is massive and it's split into three clear areas. Most of it is counter dining, whether you're up at the bar or the sushi counter. There's also a section by the wine room on the right with table seating that would be better for groups. And there's also a semi-private table downstairs for parties. We sat up at the main sushi counter and if you want to get really up close and personal with the chefs, the counter wraps around so there are a few seats on the kitchen side too. We have a special shout out to the designers who made the counter seating so comfortable.
The communal dining area at Wild Izakaya
Is this a straightforward sushi restaurant?
No, it's definitely more of an izakaya than a formal sushi restaurant - so think more bustle and energy rather than the restrained formality of straight sushi. They say they're trying to bring the energy of a Tokyo izakaya into the City of London.
That means the menu not only features sections for nigiri, sashimi, temaki and maki, but also sections for deep fried dishes, skewers, gohan rice bowls and more. We did a pretty thorough work through the whole menu, so here's what we had to give you a flavour.
Yellowtail truffle sashimi (£18) - a strong start.
Negi torro gunkan nigiri (£9 for one piece) - from the specials menu, this features Atlantic bluefin tuna minced up with spring onion.
California maki (£18 for six pieces) - hopefully our picture does this justice. So good.
Crispy rice salmon (£12) - if we see this on the menu, we're ordering it. Don't judge us.
Wagyu kushu with kouji sweet soy (£13) - served all smoky from the grill, we could have had a truckload of these.
Tamaki - from the handrolls section, we had a mix of negitoro (tuna with spring onion) and torotaku (with pickled radish) £14 each.
Room for dessert?
For dessert, there's really only one option, which is made in-house.
Mochi ice cream (£3.50 each) - there's a choice of matcha, strawberry and chocolate. We had all three, with the matcha being our favourite.
What's on the drinks list?
By now, you should know the drill with any of this group's restaurants - the wine offering is always going to be superb. As sommelier Frini Taifakou explains, "Our wine and sake list is built around a mix of small, cult producers, unique growers, and true classics, with a real focus on the best vintages." Both the wine, including a large Japanese wine section, and sake options are extensive (there's a walk-in wine room too) and sake offerings roam from London's own Kanpai Brewery to the ultra premium Beyond Dassai sake at £980 a bottle.
Cocktails are also very much worth checking out. Left to right - Plum Manhattan and Izakaya Martini (both £18) with the former a must-order.
Overall thoughts:
We came out of Wild Izakaya absolutely convinced that this place was going to do well. Sure, there are a few other sushi places in this part of town, but there's nothing quite as full-on as this. Think Nobu meets Roka with a touch of City restraint. On the night we were there, the last night of service in their first week, the place was packed with a mix of chefs and customers who love this group's other restaurants. And as word starts getting out, expect this to be a whole lot harder to get into.
More about Wild Izakaya
Where is it? 33 Old Jewry, London EC2V 8EY
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @wild_izakaya
Hot Dinners dined as guests of Wild Izakaya. Prices correct at time of publication.
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