Shoreditch, Clerkenwell
Score: 9/10

Brat

Brat

Former Kitty Fisher's chef Tomos Parry has opened his own place in Shoreditch with a mix of cooking on fire, Welsh and Basque cuisine, and a big focus on wine too.


Test Drive

Test Driving Tomos Parry's Brat in Shoreditch - a Basque hit turns up the heat
Tomos Parry's much-anticipated restaurant has opened in Shoreditch. We went to see if it could live up to the hype.

Restaurant details

Address: 4 Redchurch St, London E1 6JL

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Michelin star 1 Michelin star

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Critic reviews - total score 9 out of 10

Critics' score: 9.5
Giles Coren Times
Reviewed on April 28, 2018
"The turbot. The dish whose slang name, Brat, gives this restaurant its name. Cooked in the wood oven in one of Parry’s bespoke fish cages, it was done as perfectly as such a fish can be. Never have I seen the edges so crisp (making the bones edible) with the flesh so firm and yet the gelatinous parts so sweet and sticky on one animal." READ REVIEW

 
Critics' score: 9
Jay Rayner Observer Estimated score
Reviewed by April 22, 2018
"Of course, it’s achingly Shoreditch and so staunchly Now, which is enough to put most people’s backs up. But all that fashion blather doesn’t change a thing. The food at Brat is both seemingly effortless and utterly lovely." READ REVIEW

 
Critics' score: 8
Tim Hayward FT
Reviewed on April 13, 2018
"Brat, with its democratic layout, brilliant cooking and unique schtick, has the potential to be another St John — a classic restaurant with a long life and a rabidly devoted fan base."
READ REVIEW

 
Critics' score: 8
Keith Miller Telegraph
Reviewed on March 29, 2018
"But mostly, I’d say that Parry's heart is true - that he's doing it for the kids. Certainly some of these dishes (the rabbit, the spider crab, the grills) would warrant a place on anyone’s playlist." READ REVIEW

 
Critics' score: 10
Fay Maschler Evening Standard
Reviewed on March 28, 2018
"Chopped egg with bottarga is a sophisticate’s egg and onion; grilled bread and anchovy a foil for the admirable list of sherries, annoyingly none of them served by the glass; langoustines are where sweetness meets and greets char." READ REVIEW

 
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