Modern European | Shoreditch, Clerkenwell
Former Kitty Fisher's chef Tomos Parry's solo venture features a mix of cooking on fire, Welsh and Basque cuisine, and a big focus on wine. It became an instant hit - and it doesn't hurt that the dining room is quite lovely too.
Test Drive
Tomos Parry's much-anticipated restaurant has opened in Shoreditch. We went to see if it could live up to the hype.
Restaurant details
Address:
4 Redchurch St, London E1 6JL 
1 Michelin starMap
4 Redchurch St, London E1 6JL
Critic reviews - total score 9 out of 10
Reviewed on April 28, 2018
"The turbot. The dish whose slang name, Brat, gives this restaurant its name. Cooked in the wood oven in one of Parry’s bespoke fish cages, it was done as perfectly as such a fish can be. Never have I seen the edges so crisp (making the bones edible) with the flesh so firm and yet the gelatinous parts so sweet and sticky on one animal." READ REVIEW
Reviewed by April 22, 2018
"Of course, it’s achingly Shoreditch and so staunchly Now, which is enough to put most people’s backs up. But all that fashion blather doesn’t change a thing. The food at Brat is both seemingly effortless and utterly lovely." READ REVIEW
Reviewed on April 13, 2018
"Brat, with its democratic layout, brilliant cooking and unique schtick, has the potential to be another St John — a classic restaurant with a long life and a rabidly devoted fan base."
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Reviewed on March 29, 2018
"But mostly, I’d say that Parry's heart is true - that he's doing it for the kids. Certainly some of these dishes (the rabbit, the spider crab, the grills) would warrant a place on anyone’s playlist." READ REVIEW
Reviewed on March 28, 2018
"Chopped egg with bottarga is a sophisticate’s egg and onion; grilled bread and anchovy a foil for the admirable list of sherries, annoyingly none of them served by the glass; langoustines are where sweetness meets and greets char." READ REVIEW
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