Philadelphia pizza chef Joe Beddia in the kitchen at Bar Etna
So this is the new Four Legs pizza bar we've been hearing so much about?
It is, and given what absolutely massive hits both The Plimsoll and Tollingtons were, you'll forgive us for having wanged on about this quite a bit. But this is a different beast in some ways in that it sees Four Legs' Ed McIlroy bringing in an international partner for the first time in the form of pizza legend Joe Beddia.
What exactly makes him a pizza legend?
Well, respected food title Bon Appétit said his Philadelphia pizzeria served up the Best Pizza in America, so that's something.
And what are they doing together in London?
Ed and Joe have decided to open the kind of collaborative restaurant that works so well in London, where we're pretty used to a mix of culinary traditions blending together. So this is being dubbed an East Coast-style pizza bar by way of Italy and North London.
Where exactly is it?
You'll find it on Newington Green which is fast becoming one of London's great foodie hubs being home to Cadet, Jolene, Perilla, the recently opened The Gold Tooth and now this. Getting here if you're not a local isn't the easiest of things, but as there's a bus stop literally right outside the restaurant, we'd suggest you head to Highbury & Islington and then take the 236, which will drop you by the front door.
This is what you're looking for
Where should we meet friends for a drink first?
There are plenty of options, not least the aforementioned Cadet and The Golden Tooth. There's also the lovely Yield nearby for wine and The Edinburgh for a proper pint. But all of that might be put to one side because really Bar Etna has a massive bar of its own, one that takes up the whole front of the building. In due course, this is going to be somewhere to sit and grab a slice of pizza (quarter pizzas will be £6-7) and a drink (and bigger pizzas once some clever pizza pie balancing tables get attached to the walls). Right now they're just doing drinks.
The huge bar space at Bar Etna
Where should we sit?
If you're here for a pizza in the first few weeks, then your only option is going to be securing one of the must-have tables upstairs in the dining room, which looks over the open-plan kitchen. Up here there's room for about 40 people, and it's a gorgeous womb-like timber space.
The dining room at Bar Etna, looking towards the open kitchen at the back
Right. What's on the menu?
Shall we start with the non-pizza elements first? On the launch menu, there were very good anchovies and portions of fresh cheese served simply with olive oil. And we hear that once the kitchen is properly up and running, there are small plates like scallops Rockefeller and aubergine parm planned.
All that being said, here's the one thing you absolutely must order.
Tomato pie (£6) - a dish that originated from the Italian-American communities of Philadelphia in the early 20th century. It features amazing tomatoes, simply seasoned on a focaccia-like crust. In the background is a cheese appetiser, which is currently a Pecorino fresca from Neal's Yard and will change seasonally.
And the pizzas?
There are four 14" pizzas on offer. Number One (£19) has a tomato base and is topped with mozzarella and Coolea. Number Two (£21) is a cream-based pizza with Calabrian chillies, greens and Coolea. Then there's the Etna Curry Pizza, which features a mix of spinach, cream, spices and mozzarella (£23) and finally Pizza Number Four (£17), which is the no-cheese option with tomato, garlic and oregano.
These are all designed to be eaten as is, but you're also encouraged to add a variety of toppings, including pepperoni, mushrooms, anchovies and sausage.
Pizza Number One, with added pepperoni courtesy of Cobble Lane Cured and mushrooms. A standout pizza. Style-wise, it's a thin crust, but with more flop than some of the recent New Haven-style pizzas we've tried in London.
Etna Curry Pizza - we'll level with you, this one wasn't to our taste. Call us philistines, but we reckon a bit of hot honey or some levelling sweetness wouldn't go amiss here. But the strong curry flavours might just be someone else's perfect pizza.
Room for dessert?
Things are kept nice and simple for dessert with soft serve being the only option.
Cream soft serve (£6)
What about drinks?
The list is very much of the moment in London right now, which is to say you'll find three house spritzes, negronis on tap and homemade sodas. If you fancy a beer with your pizza, they have a few on draught from local breweries like Lost & Grounded and Beak. Wines by the bottle are on the punchy side for a North London pizzeria - starting at £45 but with most in the £55-£68 range and a couple in the £80s. So our bottle of Mallorcan Son Llebre was mid-range at £68, but it was a delicious, organic and vegan-friendly white.
Overall thoughts:
We went in very early to Bar Etna, so the offering is only going to get bigger and better, and we can't wait to try the extended small plates and more pizzas. With all that in mind, this is 100% a must-visit for anyone interested in London's pizza game. But it's also a very good new addition to the Newington Green scene - bringing a gorgeous new bar to the area. The promise of late-night slices and spritzes this summer sounds very enticing.
More about Bar Etna
Where is it? 47 Newington Green, Newington Green, London N16 9PX
How to book? Book online
Find out more: Follow them on Instagram @bar.etna.london
Hot Dinners dined as guests of Bar Etna. Prices correct at time of publication.
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