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Test Driving Automat, the speakeasy restaurant hidden at the back of a Mayfair shop

automat mayfair restaurant reviewIt's a candlelit restaurant where the lighting makes everyone look great.

So what do we need to know about Automat?

When we first brought you the scoop on the fact that the much-loved nineties Mayfair restaurant was reopening, we knew little to nothing about who was behind it. In fact we presumed that it was the people who'd run it before. But it turns out that the name Automat hadn't been copyrighted or licensed so this is a homage to, but entirely separate to what came before.

I'm young, I don't know anything about this Automat...

Fair enough - after all the original restaurant closed back in 2012 after it was saved from administration by Giuseppe Cipriani. Back then it was one of those buzzy Mayfair spots that everyone seemed to have a fond spot for, serving American diner food in the heart of the West End. The space where it was has now become The Dover.

So what's this then?

This is something similar, but different. It opened seriously under the radar (apart from us knowing about it!) and half the battle for you is going to be finding it in the first place.

Where is it?

You'll find it at the back of the Tanner Krolle shop on Mount Street in Mayfair, just off the top end of Berkeley Square. There's absolutely no signage outside to show that there's a restaurant inside this luggage store, but once you go in the front doors you'll be able to see the restaurant through the internal windows. Think of it as a speakeasy-style restaurant.

automat mayfair restaurant reviewAs you can see, there's no sign from the outside that there's a restaurant here at all.

Where should we sit?

There are two dining rooms and we have to say the front one would be our preferred spot, unless you're having some sort of secret assignation. There's banquette seating along the wall and a lot of nice group tables too.

automat mayfair restaurant reviewThe front dining room at Automat (off to the left out of shot is a sort of freestanding bar)

What sort of food are we talking?

Their sell is it's "a refined interpretation of early and mid-20th-century American dining culture". The menu is positively basic compared to the current London trend for huge menus with just five mains and a handful of starters, salads and snacks. But yes, there's definitely an American diner element to the offering.

automat mayfair restaurant reviewCheese toasties (£14) - our dining companion was late, so these proved the perfect thing to snack on until her arrival. They're thin, cheesy and covered in truffle shavings but won't spoil your appetite.

Here's what we had to give you an idea of what to expect.

automat mayfair restaurant reviewJumbo shrimp cocktail (£26) - the shrimp were good but what elevated this was the amazing Automat house sauce. So good.

automat mayfair restaurant reviewSteak tartare (£24) - a creditable version served with homemade crisps.

At this stage you have a decision to make, whether you're going for a handheld - think burger, lobster roll, hot dog - or an actual main. We split the difference, sharing a burger and then a main.

automat mayfair restaurant reviewAutomat burger (£26) - this is an absolute belter of a burger. It comes with mature cheddar, pickles and more of that Automat house sauce. But, be warned, it's a sloppy beast.

automat mayfair restaurant reviewAutomat chicken pie (£26) - served with sweet potato mash (and a pot of gravy on the side), this looks pretty plain until you taste it. That pastry is divine.

Room for dessert?

Dessert options are equally simple, there's a pecan pie, flourless brownie cake and ice creams, along with this...

automat mayfair restaurant reviewCheesecake - a lovely version, although the base was perhaps a little too hard, this comes with two pouring sauces.

What about the wine selection?

You'll be wanting to hit up the wine list, if only to enjoy the delights of chatting with the ebullient sommelier. His pick of a 2022 Lucient Crochet Sancerre, which he described perfectly, was fabulous.

Anything else we should know?

Apparently, there's also going to be a social 'sporting club' downstairs, opening next year. We'll bring you more on that when we get it.

Overall thoughts:

If there's one thing to be cheered about, it's the apparent end of the super Mayfair restaurant opening. We're big fans of more vibey spots like this. And the winning mix of a clientele comprising good-looking Americans and silver fox Mayfair types just added to Automat's appeal. It's not as though they're reinventing the wheel here, but they have put together a lovely spot for a fun dinner out.

 

More about Automat

Where is it? 127 Mount St, London W1K 3NT

How to book: book online

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @automatmayfair.

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Automat. Prices correct at time of publication.

 

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