The Yellow Bittern is opening in the evenings for the first time

When it first opened, swirling in a cloud of controversy, The Yellow Bittern was famous for several things: having an irascible owner/chef, having no website/social media/online bookings and only being open at lunchtime. The first two elements have remained the same, but from next month, they'll be relaxing their lunchtime-only policies.

For the summer, the restaurant will now open on Friday evenings, but as more of a wine bar than a full-blown restaurant. On offer will be "bottles of wine, pot au feu and cheese and wheaten bread". So far, so straightforward. But in the manner we've now come to expect, chef Hugh Corcoran is at pains to state what won't be on offer.

"It is not aimed at people who want dinner or a restaurant experience and it is not for people who don’t like drinking wine," he says, adding, "It is not aimed at people who want dinner or a restaurant experience."

They'll be taking bookings on the day by phone (of course), but expect this to be predominantly a walk-in affair. "This [is] primarily for friends, colleagues and regulars to come by and have a glass with me in the evening," explains Hugh. "It is for those of us who enjoy drinking and conversation. So don’t expect much other than that."

That's us told, then.