Looking into The Emory rooftop bar from the terrace
In a nutshell
London's hotel bar scene is extraordinarily competitive, and frankly there's nothing more compelling than a bar that's hard to get into. Since it first opened in April, the rooftop bar at the all-suite hotel The Emory, was extremely hard to get into, given it was for hotel guests only. Happily, that's now changed with the arrival of top Argentinian bartender Renato 'Tato' Giovannoni who's taken it over for an extended pop-up, during which it's being opened to the public.
Tato, who's behind one of the World's Best Bars, Florería Atlántico in Buenos Aires, is in London for two months in total and he's been joined by fellow Argentinian Alex Resnik. As Wolfgang Puck's right-hand man, Resnik helped launch Cut at 45 Park Lane. Together they're serving up a menu of Tato's signature cocktails along with those inspired by his childhood in Buenos Aires and this bar's location in London.
So the bar is swanky?
Extremely! Taking over the tenth floor of the building designed by the late Richard Rogers and Ivan Harbour, the windows up here are curved making them disappear so it feels like there's nothing between you and the whole of Hyde Park down one side and the crown jewels of the London skyline on the other. It's also a pretty intimate space (half the building's tenth floor is taken up with a cigar lounge looking west) so there are just six tables and the same number of stools up at the bar.
There's also a small terrace that you can't sit out on, but is perfect for taking photos of the view.
From the dome of St Paul's to the Shard and the London Eye, the whole of the city is laid out before you
What kind of drinks are we talking about?
Back in Argentina Tato's bar made a name for itself with a cocktail list that took inspiration from Argentinian history as well as his childhood home on the coast there. So the list is split into a series of nautical chapters. We tried to order one from each of the categories to give you a good idea as to what to expect. Here are the highlights:
Garua Martini (£22) - this is probably the drink you may have heard about. Made with Principe de los Apostoles yerba mate gin, Anis, Giovannoni Dry Vermouth and, pay attention now, local rain water. But don't worry the London rainwater has been boiled and filtered before it's sprayed on to the glass.
Negroni Balestrini (£22) - Principe de los Apóstoles yerba mate gin, Campari, Amaro Averna, eucalyptus and - sticking with the maritime theme, sea water. It's also infused with a quite dramatic smokiness.
Supercalifragilisticoespoalidoso (£20): you can probably guess the fictional London-based character that inspired this drink. We particularly liked the toasty notes of the Artist blend Scotch Whisky and Drambuie Barley and the 'sooty' chimney sweep's handprint on the glass made with Champagne wine dust.
What's the food like?
For the duration of the pop-up, the bar will be bringing out a range of complimentary bar snacks, inspired by what's served in the Florería Atlántico bar in Buenos Aires. When you arrive you're given potato chips with seaweed salt, sweet sesame nuts and marinated olives. Then a tray of King crab and prawn empanadas does the rounds in addition to the following...
Triple Anchovy” - this is Tato’s twist on an afternoon tea sandwich with black olive tapenade, capers, anchovies and egg, topped with edible flowers.
If you're still hungry, you could also opt for the single paid-for bar food platter, the mood board by the hotel's executive chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
The Mood Board features 36-month Aged Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, datterini tomatoes, cucumbers with preserved lemon cashew kefir, marinated olives, buttered breakfast radishes with Maldon sea salt, cave aged cheddar crackers, Marcona almonds and then you get to choose between Cobble Lane bresaola or coppa or slices of the Smokin’ Brothers Soy and Whiskey Cured Salmon. (£88)
Overall thoughts
The Emory rooftop bar is a very beautiful space, both in terms of its design and the view it affords over London. Combine that with the inspiration of one of the world's best bartenders and you have a cast-iron reason for booking a table here.
More about The Emory X Tato pop-up
Where is it? Old Barrack Yard, London SW1X 7NP
When? The pop-up runs from 6 September – 5 November 2024
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @theemorylondon
Hot Dinners visited as guests of The Emory. Prices correct at time of publication.
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