The full afternoon tea, including the bag of crudites (and dip) on the left to kick things off.
What is Calcifer's Kitchen?
It's a limited-time-only pop-up at Selfridges that's essentially a Howl's Moving Castle-themed café. Calcifer's Kitchen is a team-up with Loewe (who are selling Howl's fashion gear on the ground floor), Studio Ghibli and French design and catering studio Balboste - the latter are the main people behind this pop-up cafe. They really have gone to quite extraordinary levels of detail with this venture.
It's the third such collaboration between Loewe and Studio Ghibli (although the first to be in Selfridges) so they've had a bit of practice by this point.
Where can I find it?
It's inside Selfridges on Oxford Street. First, you should pop to the ground floor and take a quick look at the Loewe installation and attendant goodies (and its mini castle), then take the closest escalator down to the lower ground floor, keep walking straight and you'll find it just beside the chocolate department (it's where Dolly's Cafe is normally).
Calcifer's kitchen. Even the menus on the tables are specifically themed.
So how much have they changed the cafe?
In a word - completely. Along with the clouds on the walls and the floor, everything from the tables (many of which have feet like the castle's) to the cutlery and crockery have been designed bespoke for this pop-up. It's quite an achievement with exceptional attention to detail.
Essentially, if you're a fan of Studio Ghibli or the movie, you'll at the very least want to swing by and take a look at it.
What's the food like?
There are a few options. You can come for breakfast, where they have dishes like a marble blue hard egg with mayonnaise, or aperitivo where you can have a selection of coloured onigiris. The main event is really the afternoon tea, though. That's where the Howl's Moving Castle theme is really full-on. Every element of the tea has an association with the movie, and it also comes with a little booklet to tell you both what everything on the platter is but also what the inspirations were.
Here's a closer look at what's on offer:
Starting at the bottom, you'll find the savoury course. This includes a lobster bun (see more of that below), crackers, choucroute in a roll (inspired by the Alsace location), fruit "flower pies" with coconut cream dip and the very impressive vermicelli broomsticks (which you dip in a potter's recreation of Sophie's hat.
Next up, it's the sweet course, including Victoria sponge, pistachio-filled mochi with gems, a "cloud terrine" and a particularly impressive looking matcha bretzel.
Finally, on top you'll find a macaron version of Calcifer himself placed in a little crockery frying pan. Even the bows are edible, made of "fruit leather".
There's a little fold-out booklet that comes with the meal that goes into full detail about what's on the platter.
What about drinks?
The Howl's Moving Castle continues through into the drinks side of things. Tea or filter coffee is included in the price of the Afternoon Tea (£85) with refills as you need them. Other coffees, like a latte, are extra but they do come with a little Calcifer on top. There are also three cocktails (including one virgin cocktail) that are specifically themed after the movie (£20 for the cocktails, £14 for the virgin cocktail).
Coffee with a little Calcifer on top.
One of the cocktails - the Coco cloud (Rhum, white absinthe, coconut water (toasted), clarified lime, habanero pepper, butterfly pea tea. We should note that this normally comes with a bubble on top that you burst to reveal the cloud (but that wasn't ready for us on the day we visited).
So - how hard is it to get a table?
Hard, but not impossible. The afternoon tea is currently completely booked up, but we'd say that if you're in the area mid-week it might be worth seeing if they have any tables as some are kept back for walk-ins. But if you can't get a table, you can still peruse the Calcifer's Kitchen shop for some goodies to take home.
If you're just passing, there's a lot to pick up at the shop too - as well as extra attention to detail in the packaging.
Overall thoughts
This is how to do an immersive experience well. Everything has been put together with such care and that really shows. And, crucially, the afternoon tea was just lovely. If you're a fan of the movie, head down and try your luck and you'll at least go home with some Howl's treats.
More about Calcifer's Kitchen at Selfridges
Where is it? 400 Oxford St, London W1A 1AB
When does it open? 1-25 February 2023
How to book: Book online
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @selfridgesfood.
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