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Test Driving Martino's, the hot new Italian that's dramatically raising the bar in Chelsea

ALTA scene at the bar, lovely white tablecloths, candles to make everyone look fabulous - that's how it all comes together at Martino's

What do we need to know about Martino's?

Probably the most important thing about Martino's is the man behind it. Martin Kuczmarski is the restaurateur who played an absolute blinder in opening The Dover in Mayfair, rewriting the playbook while he did it. Now he's turned his attentions to Chelsea. This new opening is an all-day affair, so the kind of place you could drop by for breakfast, bring the kids for lunch, or saunter by for a martini and a plate of pasta in the evening. It's also a beautiful-looking dining room with a central bar as the centrepiece, a useful design device that means the room is always buzzing.

Where is it?

We've got to hand it to Martin for picking a gem of a site. This is what used to be half of the old Hugh Boss store on Sloane Square. It's the first thing you see when you come out of the tube station at Sloane Square and takes up a prominent corner on the square.

martino's sloane square chelsea restaurant reviewThe signage, when we went, was very subtle...

Where's a good place to sit?

If you're just swinging by for a drink and a dish, then up at the bar is 100% the place to be. It's a very comfortable option and an easy spot for solo dining too. There are a couple of great group tables, but hands-down our favourite option would be the semi-booths at the back of the dining room. They're perfect for a date night, or sharing gossip (or company secrets) you don't want anyone else to overhear.

martinos restaurant review chelsea sloane squareThe lovely half booths at Martino's

And what kind of food is it?

Think Milanese trattoria - so a mix of Italian classics, from carpaccios to pasta dishes and larger options like on the bone veal Milanese for mains.

Here's what we had over a couple of meals there to give you an idea:

martinos restaurant review chelsea sloane squareZucchini fritti (£10) - perfect examples of one of our favourite snacks and we particularly liked the addition of both salt and vinegar to the mix.

martinos restaurant review chelsea sloane squareTortellini in brodo (£13) - the kind of soup that would cure you of all ailments, physical or spiritual. We also liked the additional jug of broth it came with for topping up.

martinos restaurant review chelsea sloane squareBeef fillet carpaccio with a Pecorino cream, hazelnuts and horseradish dressing (£22) - a good example of the kitchen gently enhancing a classic.

From this stage on we were on the mains, or secondi, with portions so big that we had quite the doggy bag to take home.

martinos restaurant review chelsea sloane squareLasagne verde alla Bolognese (£25) - we don't have an Italian nonna, but if we had, this would be the kind of dish we'd expect her to make for us.

martinos restaurant review chelsea sloane squareMeatballs zupetta (£25) beef meatballs in a rich ragu served with toasted bread and a load of Parmesan.

martinos restaurant review chelsea sloane squareOn the bone veal Milanese (£35) a dish so good and so on point that it should become their signature.

Room for dessert?

At this stage our overenthusiasm for the savoury courses proved to be our undoing, so we couldn't try the crespelle al pistachio or crostata al frutti rossi. But to be fair, we did have these and they were very, very good.

doughnutsBomboloni (£9) - warm Italian doughnuts stuffed with a lemon and vanilla custard and served still warm.

What about the drinks?

Whether you're coming here for lunch or dinner, we feel you're definitely going to want to give the cocktail list here a go. And while we weren't fans of their Cosmopolitan (the balance wasn't quite right), we have to say their martinis (£18 each) are definitely on point. As for the wine, it's heartening to find a list at a restaurant of this calibre that starts as low as £35, but also finds room for a Martino's Super Tuscan at £199. It's an altogether inclusive affair.

Overall thoughts:

With Martino's, which was under the radar until the very last minute, Martin Kuczmarski has made opening a restaurant look easy. But don't be fooled. Getting something like this right, that seemingly effortless mix of good service, great design and delicious food is anything but. Martino's is going to do so well here in Chelsea, but only because it's got an insanely talented team involved at every level. Sloane Square locals must be wondering what they did to deserve it.

 

More about Martino's

Where is it? The Willett Building, 37 Sloane Square, London SW1W 8AN

How to book: book online

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @martinoslondon

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Martino's. Prices correct at time of publication.

 

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