Test Driving Dover Street Counter, the Mayfair diner that brings the party

It's counter dining - but Mayfair style.

Is this related to The Dover?

It is, not only by virtue of being on the same road, but as the latest of two openings in quick succession by The Dover restaurateur Martin Kuczmarski (the other was Martino's in Chelsea). And while there are similarities between all three - think general design language and on-point service - Dover Street Counter is very much the cool new kid of the trio.

What sort of place is it?

It's being described as a neighbourhood hangout with 'rebellious energy'. To translate, that means it's more of a vibey, laidback spot for Mayfair. The food is more casual, the music is louder, and it's tilted more as the kind of place you could pop in for a burger and a margarita as much as somewhere to hang out for longer.

Where exactly is it?

It's right at the top of Dover Street, past The Dover on the same side, just before you hit Hay Hill. The nearest tube is Green Park.

This is what you're looking for - it's very subtle.

So, we've got a booking. Where do we sit?

Our preference here would always be up at the counter, where you're in the thick of the action. But this restaurant is a little warren with two further dining rooms that open out at the back and to the side. So it's much bigger than it looks from the front. If you're here with a group, then our pick would be the dining room off to the right, which is very Dover-coded in its design.

The semi-private room that would be great for parties.

What's on the menu?

Martin describes this food as that eclectic mix you might find on a room service menu in a fabulous hotel abroad, so there are snacks, sandwiches and salads along with a shortlist of larger dishes. If you fancy a wedge salad with candied walnuts and ranch dressing, then so be it. Want to go bigger with a short rib and fries, then that's also fine. The chef running the show (and loosely as executive chef now across the group) is Hamish Brown who used to head up the food across the Roka group.

Here's what we had to give you an idea. We'd also like to point your attention to the pricing, which is insanely good value for this part of town.

Whipped ricotta with truffled honey and Italian crispbread (£8) - the perfect snack to have with your cocktails. And you are going to want to have cocktails, trust us.

Tuna tartare coupe with rice crackers and avocado (£16) - very good snackage

Everything muffin filled with a fried egg, smashed sausage patty, bacon, cheese and an unbelievably good spicy sauce (£15).

DSC French dip (£19) - a roll absolutely stuffed with sliced roast beef, beef ragu, Taleggio and pickles and a sauceboat full of jus for dunking. We loved this, but we could have done with a bib, as it's a seriously messy, multiple-napkin affair. Maybe not the one to choose for a first date.

Spaghetti all'assassina (£18)- described on the menu as crunchy pasta in spicy tomato sauce this is the dish responsible for all the pyrotechnics in the open kitchen as it's regularly flambeed to get that crunchy base. A dish from Puglia, the pasta goes in the pan uncooked and then has tomato 'broth' added to it. A must-have.

Room for dessert?

We thought we had managed to save space for a slice of cheesecake, but the kitchen sent over the pie too which, to no one's surprise, we also effortlessly devoured.

New York cheesecake (£11) - yes we know this is on literally everyone's dessert menu at the moment. But the one here comes with a flambe banana, and a spiced rum caramel sauce that puts it head and shoulders above the rest.

Warm apple and rhubarb pie with cardamon custard and cinnamon sugar (£9), the bougiest of homages to a McDonald's apple pie.

You mentioned cocktails earlier. What's on the drinks list?

Cocktails are divided into three categories: margaritas, old-school and non-alcoholic. There's nothing here that's going to startle the horses, except for the prices. With all the margaritas at £14 and the old-school range like martinis and cosmos for £16 that's a bona fide steal for Mayfair. And while you can enjoy a bottle of wine for just £36, this is Mayfair after all, so there's a Mersault on there for £260 too.

A martini and pineapple margarita at Dover Street Counter.

Overall thoughts:

You'd have to be the kind of person who sucks the joy out of a room, not to get a kick out of eating at Dover Street Counter. Believe us, they might make this look easy, but bringing an East London vibe that also meets Mayfair standards is quite the endeavour. And to manage to do it at a price point that won't leave you crying is even more of a miracle these days. It's possibly the easiest recommendation we've had in quite some time.