Looking into the dining room at Teal
So what do we need to know about Teal?
The key thing is that this is the first time top chef Sally Abé has gone it alone. You may have tried Abé's food back when she headed up the kitchen at Michelin-starred pub The Harwood Arms. Or maybe you encountered her at her Westminster restaurant, The Pem? Most recently, she was out of London at The Bull in Charlbury. Now, after years of working in other people's restaurants and kitchens, this is her own business, alongside co-owner Abe Drewry. In the kitchen with Sally is head chef Abbie Hendren, who you may have seen this month representing London and the South East on the Great British Menu.
Where is it?
She's taken over the building on Wilton Way that was previously Sesta, and before that, Pidgin. So the nearest station would be Hackney Central, a few minutes' walk away. Having been to both previous restaurants, we were interested to see what had changed and were surprised to see how much the dining room here had been transformed.
The main difference has been the addition of some counter dining, but the whole room has been given quite the makeover courtesy of Sally and her interior designer sister Alice Webster. Green panelling, proper lighting and great seating have made this a very comfortable place to dine in. The look is quite Spitalfields Hugenot, via New England, and we very much approve of it.
Come the summer, that terrace is going to be a popular place to be
Where should we meet friends for a drink first?
This is a useful thing to know as it's a small restaurant and right now while it's too cold to sit outside there isn't anywhere to wait inside. Our tip would be either to head to the end of the street to the Spurstowe Arms and there's also wine bar Binch very close by. If you're here for an early dinner, the Wilton Way Deli and wine shop opposite will be open too.
Where should we sit?
If you're a larger group, then one of the tables would be better, but we have to say our two seats up at the counter looking into the restaurant felt like they were the best in the house.
The best counter seats at Teal
And what sort of food are we talking about?
It's all about the great British larder here, so expect the menu to closely reflect both what's in season and also the connections Sally's built over the years with producers.
Here's what we had to give you an idea. We will start by saying that on no account should you skip the snacks section, as there are some belters there.
Brawn scotch egg (£10) served with the tangiest Oxford sauce
Devils on horseback (£4) - the team take this popular canape to the next level, stuffing the date with chicken liver pate rather than the usual almond, before wrapping it with bacon and then frying.
Dorset crab royale with English peas and lovage (£15) - an insanely tasty savoury custard with the first of the new season peas.
New season asparagus tartlet with Old Winchester cheese (£16) -a real taste of spring with an incredibly delicate tart base
Beef sirloin with short rib and wild garlic (£36) - some of the best beef we've had in ages served both rare, and slow-cooked, with a bit of seasonal wild garlic sauce
Haunch of deer with pickled walnut and cavolo nero (£35) - Game has always been a big part of Sally Abé's menus since the Harwood Arms days. This is a great example of that, with the rich sauce in particular bringing it all together.
Room for dessert?
Desserts are, in our opinion, absolutely unmissable at Teal. If you genuinely don't think you could manage one, then opt for the Penny Lick.
The Penny Lick (£1) - served in a teeny glass, you won't look good eating it (so maybe not for a first date), but you will feel good as all proceeds from this are given to the Hackney Food Bank.
Rhubarb jubilee (£12) - if you love rhubarb, then this is a must, featuring rhubarb in ice cream, jelly and poached form along with a brandy snap for good measure.
Marmalade ice cream sandwich (£12) - probably the fanciest ice cream sandwich we've had in a while, and surely something that Paddington Bear would approve of.
What's the drinks list like?
It's relatively punchily priced for Hackney, with wines starting at £42 and most upwards of £50. That said, we did really like our South African cool climate pinot noir (£52). If you are wanting to push the boat out there's a separate section of Special Bottles on the list too.
Overall thoughts:
It's always interesting to see how a new chef and restaurant team can turn a place you've known well into an entirely different proposition. We enjoyed both Pidgin and Sesta, but it feels like with Teal, Sally and her team have brought more of a grown-up offering to this part of Hackney. Dishes here are beautifully executed with the kind of finesse you'd pay loads more for in central London. So if you don't live East, maybe this is one to travel for. And if you do live nearby, it's 100% worth a go.
More about Teal by Sally Abé
Where is it? 52 Wilton Way, London E8 1BS
How to book? Book online
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @tealbysallyabe.
Hot Dinners dined as guests of Teal. Prices correct at time of publication.
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