From as far back as the 16th century, this little corner of southwestern France, close to the Atlantic coast, has been forging a name for its amazing brandy. Now, very much in rude health in the 21st century (thanks in no small part to the US rappers who love it so much), Cognac has been busy innovating the visitor experience, without losing that connection to terroir, personality and tradition.
We popped over for a few nights to check out some of the big-name distilleries, along with smaller, more independent houses to get a real flavour of what Cognac has to offer the foodie tourist.
Where we stayed
The entrance to Hotel Chais Monnet - everywhere you looked, there were fountains, gorgeous plants and a clever mix of old and new buildings.
Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa couldn't be better situated for a first-time trip to this part of the world. Set in Cognac itself, it's just a short walk to many of the best-known cognac houses. The main building itself was actually a trading house belonging to the Monnet Cognac distillery. Now it's been transformed with a startlingly modern addition into a five-star luxury hotel that's part-owned by the owner of Soho Farmhouse. This is where 50 Cent stayed when he visited Cognac, which we're not one bit surprised by.
There are 92 rooms and suites, along with some self-catering apartments. We stayed in a premier room in the historic part of the building and the rooms were huge. They had a garden terrace, an absolutely massive bathroom and it was all very stylish and comfortable.
In addition to the hotel's signature restaurant (more of which later), there's also a more informal all-day space which serves a cracking breakfast, and a huge bar with over 300 cognacs to choose from. Come the summer, the hotel opens up its rooftop bar, which has panoramic views over Cognac.
The Cognac houses we visited
There are a whopping 270 Cognac houses in the area, so you're not short of places to go. Luckily, we were travelling with Explore Cognac, who put together a list of places to visit that would give our group a broad experience. If, like us, you might be worrying that it might get a bit samey visiting so many, the great news is that here in Cognac, they've thought ahead and made all their visitor experiences quite different. That means you never feel like you're getting the same information drummed into you at each place.
Quai Richard Hennessy, 16100 Cognac, France
Pretty much nothing has changed in how barrels are made over the last couple of hundred years and it apparently takes years to fully master the art of cooperage.
If you have the time and money, we can't recommend the Destination Cooperage tour at Hennessy highly enough. Over two hours, we got to visit Hennessy's amazing cooperage on site, where cognac barrels are still made using age-old techniques and materials. We saw a barrel made from start to finish, which honestly was a revelation. It's hard to put into words quite how amazing it is to see top-level artisan techniques first-hand.
The tour also includes a boat trip across the Charente river to their cellar and ends with a tasting of two eaux-de-vie and Hennessy X.O, both neat and in a cocktail. Don't swerve the shop. If you fancy picking up a limited edition bottle in collaboration with the likes of LeBron James, this is your place. (Tour - 150 euros.)
20 Rue de la Société Vinicole, 16100 Cognac, France
Truffles, cheese and canales were all part of the pairing at the start of our visit to Remy Martin.
Set in a gorgeous chateau just outside our hotel's main gates, the Opulence tour at Remy kicked off with a tasting of their XO cognacs alongside truffles and canelés. We then headed across the road to the historic house for a mini tour which included such delights as a canister of Remy designed to go into space and which ended with a state-of-the-art light and show in the old cellars. (Tour and tasting 90 euros.)
The atmospheric one: Maison Delamain
7 Rue Jacques et Robert Delamain, 16200 Jarnac, France
Looking more like a movie set rather than the working distillery it is, Maison Delmain delivered atmosphere in barrels.
This house that specialises in premium, aged cognacs is based in nearby Jarnac and the hotel can arrange transport for you. It's family-run, but owned by Bollinger. Here, the tour you want to go for is the cellar dining. They have an amazing local chef preparing a meal paired with their Grande Champagne cognacs. We popped down to their 18th-century cellars for a cognac, oyster and pate en croute pairing and it was one of the highlights of our trip. (Cellar dining starts at 295 euros).
The fun one: Chateau Montifaud
36 Rte d'Archiac, 17520 Jarnac-Champagne, France
Our guide at Montifaud starting our visit with the first ingredient in our cognac cocktail.
This independent, family-run house has a novel approach to its tour. On arrival, you're given a cocktail mixer which, at various stages of the tour through the distillery is filled with elements of a cognac cocktail. At the end, you shake and taste your cocktail alongside a variety of the cognacs produced here. This would be a particularly good pick for a group outing. (Tours start at just 14 euros).
Where we ate
A seasonal offering of Anjou pigeon, blackberries and beetroot at Michelin-starred Les Foudres
Hotel Chais Monnet boasts its own Michelin-starred restaurant run by chef Mathis Debize. It's a beautiful space in the historic part of the hotel, built underneath where the barrels would have been stored. There are a variety of tasting menus on offer here, running from 80 euros for three courses through to 160 euros for the six-course Prestige menu. Expect a very fine-dining approach here with local wines and produce at the heart of the offering.
A seasonal offering of Anjou pigeon, blackberries and beetroot at Michelin-starred Les Foudres
Hands-down our favourite restaurant visit of the trip, this is the kind of establishment that wouldn't look out of place in Pigalle or Hackney, and we mean that as the greatest of compliments. Antoine used to work at Michelin-starred Lucas Carton in Paris and is now running this bistronomy spot in Cognac with his brother. The menu is tight, just a few choices per course, and the wines are all natural.
Creme caramel with a tuile croustillante at Restaurant Cave La Quincellairie
Restaurant Cave La Quincaillerie
This Michelin Guide-listed restaurant is on the drive from Bordeaux airport to Cognac, making it a handy place to stop en route. Lunchtimes are particularly good value with a two-course menu formule starting at just 22 euros. Set in a 19th-century former ironmongers, the team here serve up traditional French dishes with a regularly changing menu according to what's in season.
Planning your own trip?
Head to the Explore Cognac website to get to know the region before you travel and work out which houses you want to visit.
More about Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa
Where is it? 50 Av. Paul Firino Martell, 16100 Cognac, France
How much: Nightly rates start from €265 per room
How to book: book online
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @hotelchaismonnetandspa
Hot Dinners stayed as guests of Hotel Chais Monnet and Explore Cognac
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