19/9/18 - updated with interior shots
In a nutshell: Newington Green bakery and restaurant from the Westerns Laundry team
Summing it all up: Let's hope it's third time lucky for the team behind Westerns Laundry and Primeur as they take on the old Dandy site on Newington Green turning it into a rare grain bakery and restaurant.
About a week ago, an eagle-eyed Hot Dinners reader spotted that the old Dandy site on Newington Green had the builders in. A short investigation revealed it was going to be Jolene, a new bakery and restaurant by the folk behind nearby Primeur and Westerns Laundry.
Jolene (and yes - we've got the earworm by Dolly Parton too) sees Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim and David Gingell join forces with farmer Andy Cato - a Gascony-based farmer growing chemical-free crops. He's helped them source unique grains for the bakery from two UK farms, one in Goodwood, Sussex, and Priory Farm in Norfolk.
In turn, those grains will be turned, every day, into breads, pastries and fresh pastas. Kicking off at 9am in the morning they'll sell everything from Naroques bread and sausage rolls to madeleines, palmiers and cinnamon buns for breakfast.
During the day there'll be fresh pasta, stews and salads on offer, and in the evening that'll switch to simple plates for dinner - so things like grilled cod on the bone with olives and artichokes or (yes please) a 1kg T-bone with parmesan and rocket.
If you've been to either Primeur or Westerns Laundry you'll know that wine's a big thing with these boys. And if you've been following Westerns Laundry on Instagram this week, you'll know that natural wines, in particular, float their boat. Here there'll be a smallish wine list with maybe more beers, ciders and cocktails than you'd find at their other places.
It's a stubborn site this one. In the last two years alone, two really lovely businesses, Newington Table and Dandy have both failed to make it work for them. So let's hope Jeremie and David do better.
More about Jolene
Where is it? 21 Newington Green, London N16 9PU
When does it open? 18 September 2018
How to book: On their website
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