The Modern Pantry

The Modern Pantry

| Shoreditch, Clerkenwell

Opened by Anna Hansen and now run by her head chef, Robert Mcleary, this is a place for inventive fusion cuisine. Look for unusual food pairings, not to mention plenty of ingredients you'll probably need the waiter to expand on.

Restaurant details

47-48 St John’s Square, Clerkenwell, London EC1V 4JJ
Nearest tube: 
  • Farringdon
Telephone number: 0207 553 9210
More info: 
Outside seating (weather permitting)

Contact restaurant

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47-48 St John’s Square, Clerkenwell, London EC1V 4JJ


Critic reviews - total score 7 out of 10

Critics' score: 7
Lisa Markwell Independent
Reviewed on January 15, 2012
"I know I'll come back to The Modern Pantry – Hansen (not in the kitchen on our visit) is a real talent – but tonight feels an ill-fated date." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 7
Jay Rayner Observer Estimated score
Reviewed on July 10, 2011
"None of this is everyday food. It is too restless for that, too knowing. But in a town like London, which is nothing like the country in which it sits, it makes a twisted kind of sense." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 9
Matthew Norman Guardian
Reviewed on January 03, 2009
"…we left entranced by Hansen's fusion of the pan-global inventiveness that is now so deliciously nostalgic and the old-fashioned technical excellence that's become so achingly trendy." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 6
Marina O'Loughlin Metro
Reviewed on October 28, 2008
"Hansen herself has denied that what she's doing here is fusion, claiming it's merely modern cooking for her Modern Pantry. Strange, then, that it all seems so last century." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 4
AA Gill Sunday Times
Reviewed on October 19, 2008
"It’s as forgettable as hundreds and hundreds of other restaurants with no sense of occasion, pleasure, anticipation or pride. Sort of culinary Rohypnol." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 7.5
Giles Coren Times
Reviewed on September 27, 2008
"In a world where Lancashire hotpot and pease pudding occupy the cutting edge, such dishes as “truffled artichoke, tarragon and parmesan crostini”, “krupuk quail eggs, lime and chilli dipping sauce”, and “confit duck leg, roast sweet potato, beetroot, black bean, liquorice and ginger salsa” must be treated as old favourites." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 7
Terry Durack Independent
Reviewed on September 28, 2008
"The lack of faff means some dishes can look thrown on the plate, and it is hilarious how wildly exotic can so easily mean brown sauce, yet with its freshness, lightness and casual, drop-in attitude, the Modern Pantry is just that – modern." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 8
Jasper Gerard Telegraph
Reviewed on September 19, 2008
"I really like this place and hope it survives. But after this week's eruption, feeding pumpkin seeds to restaurant critics seems a bit end-of-civilisation stuff." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 8
Larushka Ivan-Zadeh This is London Estimated score
Reviewed on September 18, 2008
"If I could eat nothing else but chocolate liquorice mousse with brittle choccie wafer, whipped cream and tamarillo (£6.50) for the rest of my days, I'd die a happy old woman." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 7
Tracey MacLeod Independent
Reviewed by September 13, 2008
"Too often these days, a restaurant meal tends to be interrupted by elaborate introductions from waiters who insist on talking you through every ingredient on your plate. At the Modern Pantry, it's the food itself that stops the conversation..." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 6.5
Guy Dimond TIme Out
Reviewed on August 28, 2008
"For vibe and novelty factor, this is most exciting place to eat in Clerkenwell right now, and it’s already filled with the area’s many self-consciously creative types." READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 8
Fay Maschler Evening Standard
Reviewed on August 20, 2008
"You know that fusion works when you eat something like chorizo, date and feta fritters served with a yoghurt dip, its innate piquancy championed by tamarind, and you think why has this not been done before?" READ REVIEW

Critics' score: 6
Dos Hermanos Dos Hermanos Estimated score
Reviewed on August 12, 2008
"That Steak showed that maybe the kitchen was beginning to get the hang of things, it also showed that there are the seeds of some decent cooking here." READ REVIEW