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Perma-Provencal summer on Exmouth Market - our Test Drive of Cafe Pistou

 pistou-mainWhat do we need to know about Cafe Pistou?

A number of experienced restaurant folk have had a hand in Cafe Pistou, namely  The main behind the restaurant is Charlie McLean, who used to work with Gaucho and he brought in Alex Mackay, who trained and worked with Raymond Blanc before writing 'Cooking in Provence' to put the menu together.

Where is it? 

On the corner of Exmouth Market and Pine Street where Strada used to be. So it's a good big site and come summertime it's going to be lovely with all the windows opening out on to the market.

Where can we meet for drinks beforehand?

A good bet is the wine bar at Quality Chophouse just round the corner. There's also Prosecco on tap at The Wilmington or plenty of craft beers on offer at the Exmouth Arms further down the market.

Where should we sit?

If you're a group, there's a cracking banquette table hidden away in the back room. And we rather liked the idea of counter dining here too at the horseshoe bar. They've actually done the room out really nicely here, so we'd have been happy pretty much anywhere.

So the food's Provencal then?

It is. And just to be sure, we ate something off almost every part of the menu. It's split into light bites, small and large plates and sides.

From the first section we had a lovely platter of crispbreads with a well made tapenade. And the Barbajuans - deep fried Provencal wontons with goats cheese and honey dip are a must-order (£4). Courgette flowers with tomato and pepper sauce (£7.25 weren't quite as successful having been cooked in too heavy a batter) but our salt cod croquettes (£6) more than made up for that. The belly pork confit with artichokes (£6) may have been a starter too many, but we're still glad we ordered it.

We'd seen a lot of pictures on Twitter and instagram of the vegetarian shepherds pie which is a bit of showstopper for a veggie dish covered in a spiced feuile de brique paper which you smash up into the ratatouille, feta cheese, lentil and chickpea puree (£9). The braised lamb shoulder with baked red onions (£12) could have been eaten (and was) with a spoon. And - you must, must order the dish of dauphinoise potatoes which was a £3.50 dish that may have decreased our life expectancy but was certainly worth it.

By the time desserts came we were ready to roll out of there, but were glad we were prevailed upon to order the The Pistou - one of the better desserts we'd had this year with charcoal roast plums, marscarpone, blackcurrant sorbet and served with a caramel and pine nut crisp and basil sugar. It was easily big enough for 2 at £6.

And the same goes for the drinks?

Even the cocktail list has a decidedly Francophile bent. Our Provencal martini with herbes de Provence-infused Vermouith, lemon oils and olive (£8.50) was well made while a Sangria Rose was a reminder of summer past. The wine list is exclusively French and we plumped for a carafe of their house rose from Domaine St Felix which was £11.75.

Overall thoughts

Our one reservation was the small plate delivery issue. When we hear the dreaded words, "the dishes will come out in the order they're ready" in future, we'll know to stop ordering as if our meal is divided into starters and main courses. We had to ask the kitchen to stop sending out dishes to allow us time to eat what we'd ordered.

But on a cold winter's night this place made us feel decidedly summery, which can only be a good thing. And looking forward to warmer times, Cafe Pistou will come into its own on a sunny day when you're bunking off work for a long boozy lunch. We can't wait.

Cafe Pistou is at 8 – 10 Exmouth Market EC1 4QA . Find out more.

Hot Dinners were invited to Cafe Pistou. Prices were correct at the time of writing.

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