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Test Driving The Lanesborough Grill - modern British in a glamorous setting

lanesborough grill restaurant review london hotelThe dining room at The Lanesborough Grill is a real showstopper

What do we need to know about The Lanesborough Grill?

This is the new restaurant at The Lanesborough Hotel. Last summer chef Shay Cooper (ex-Julie's and The Goring) joined the hotel as Executive Chef. Since then he's been working on plans to give the hotel's restaurant (where Celeste once was) a complete overhaul. And now they're ready to showcase that work as the restaurant has just reopened as "modern British restaurant" The Lanesborough Grill.

Where exactly is it?

You'll find The Lanesborough on the west side of Hyde Park Corner, practically on top of Hyde Park Corner station (take the hand-scrawled exit pointing to "Harrods" and that'll send you the right way). The restaurant is along the hotel's main lobby and off to the right and it's a beautiful room with a huge domed glass roof making it a good spot for either lunch or dinner.

Right now they're also doing a flourishing business in Bridgerton afternoon teas as the Netflix series' official partner.

Where should we go for a drink first?

Definitely visit the Library Bar here at the hotel. We'd never been in for a drink before and were surprised at how lovely this was - it's one of those timeless, comfortable hotel drinking spots. If you're after a bit of privacy, opt for the 'love nest' table that's hidden off the main section of the bar and is perfect for two.

lanesborough grill restaurant review london hotelA floral Twinkle in The Library Bar

If it's a 'grill' are we talking lots of meat?

Not really - it's a grill restaurant in title only, think of that more as a description of it as a classic style hotel restaurant. For the menu, Shay says the aim is to "showcase a seasonal modern British a la carte menu championing regional artisans and the very best of seasonal produce from around the country".

In practice, that means a menu that's going to change regularly - particularly at this time of year. Here's a selection of what we had to give you a flavour:

lanesborough grill restaurant review london hotelCoronation crab salad, curry and lime sabayon (£19) - an absolutely stunning dish, with the light curry seasoning perfectly pitched against the crab.

lanesborough grill restaurant review london hotelButtermilk fried quail with mushroom, spring onion and chicken vinaigrette (£18) - perfect crispy boneless quail, a very posh take on KFC.

lanesborough grill restaurant review london hotelHereford beef tartare, crispy hop shoots, cured egg yolk, truffle and sherry dressing (£21) - you'll have to take our word for it, that there's a mound of lovely beef under all that greenery. We particularly liked those crispy hop shoots.

lanesborough grill restaurant review london hotelWild garlic risotto, Brightwell Ash, puffed grains, broad beans, sauteed morels (£32) - a bowl of seasonal colour and flavour and the puffed grains added a nice touch of texture.

lanesborough grill restaurant review london hotelCotswold white chicken breast, black garlic stuffing, cauliflower cheese purée with a roast chicken velouté (£35)

Room for dessert?

There are five options on the dessert menu, not including the cheese option which comes to you on a trolley groaning with British cheeses to choose from.

lanesborough grill restaurant review london hotelRose blend tea ice cream sandwich, rhubarb sorbet (£13) - the pinkest dessert we've had in a while, the ice cream is sandwiched between layers of meringue with that forced rhubarb sorbet stopping the whole thing from being too crazy sweet.

lanesborough grill restaurant review london hotelCaramelized brioche pudding, burnt orange puree, marmalade ice cream (£13) - a crunchy brioche that's actually a surprisingly light way to finish.

And to drink?

Adam Ramic is head sommelier here and if you want to hand yourself over to him for recommendations, you'll be glad you did. The irrepressible Ramic led us down a mainly English wine path including an introduction to a genuine show stopper from Chapel Down's premium range Kit's Coty, their 2018 Chardonnay. You can also end your meal, as we did, with a Scottish whisky flight.

Overall thoughts:

The restaurant here has always been one of London's most gorgeous looking dining rooms, now it feels that with Shay at the helm it now has a menu that matches those surroundings. It would be a particularly good place to take relatives or visitors from out of town looking for a special place for lunch or dinner.

 

More about The Lanesborough Grill

Where is it? Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA

How to book: call 020 7259 5599

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @thelanesboroughgrill

Hot Dinners dined as guests of The Lanesborough. Prices correct at the time of publication. 

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