Test Driving 64 Goodge Street - a boutique French bistro in Fitzrovia

Looking into the restaurant - you can just about see the open kitchen at the back. 

What can you tell us about 64 Goodge Street?

This is the latest opening from The Woodhead Restaurant Group, who already have another two restaurants in the area - Portland and Clipstone. They're also behind Quality Chop House, but 64 Goodge Street is a much closer relation to their existing Fitzrovia restaurants, given that the Head Chef here, Stuart Andrew, also launched those. Here, he's gone very French and says he's approaching the cuisine from "an outsider's perspective". So there are a lot of French touches and influences to the menu, but it's also taken in very new directions. 

Where is it?

As you've probably guessed, the name does give away exactly where it is. The nearest station is indeed Goodge Street (although it's an easy walk from both Warren Street and Oxford Circus too). If you're familiar with the area, you'll find it just a few doors down from the original Salt Yard. Inside the restaurant looks like it's been here forever (if you ignore the still fresh paint) - it's hard to believe it used to be a travel agents. 

Where should we meet for a drink first?

There's no bar in the restaurant and no waiting area, so if you're early you'll need to find somewhere else for a drink. There are plenty of pubs in the immediate area, albeit of quite varying quality. Our favourite remains Guy Ritchie's Lore of the Land, about a five-minute walk away. For cocktails, it's about the same distance to Artesian and for wine, head slightly north to Remedy. 

If you can get it - this is the table you want. It's in its own area at the front of the restaurant where you can do a spot of Fitzrovia people-watching. 

Inside 64, where should we sit?

It's a small boutique affair,  so this is really a "wherever they put you" affair. If you do get a choice, the best table by far is the one just by the front window (see above) but we also liked the tables at the back with a view of the kitchen. 

What's on the menu?

As mentioned, it's heavily French-influenced so the three-course menu kicks off with hors d'oeuvres to underline that. And from that section, you'll find the absolute must-have snack:

roomSnail, bacon & garlic ‘bon bons’ (£8). They told us that they took the concept from the traditional ‘dimpled’ snail dish. Here, snails and Bayonne ham bacon are blended with some almonds and they have "liberal garlic butter like the original dish" added too. They are VERY good.

With those excellent morsels out of the way (although you may well be tempted to order a couple more), it's onto the main event. We managed a fair chunk of the menu, so here's what you can expect: 

roomBayonne ham & celeriac remoulade (£14) - good snacking food and a great remoulade.

roomScallop, lentils & beurre blanc (£18) - perfect cooking rendered the lentils sweet without sacrificing any of their structural integrity.

roomRabbit Niçoise (£16) - a different take on the classic dish and very well executed.

roomMorteau sausage, walnut & Morbier tourte (£16) - the Woodhead restaurants are known for their great pies and pastries so this is another must.

roomLobster vol-au-vent & sauce Américaine (£40) - we heartily approve of the fact that there was way too much lobster to actually stuff into the vol au vent, making it a carby accompaniment instead.

roomSquab pigeon, Lyonnaise sausage & beetroot (£36) - Extremely rich in both colour and flavour. 

roomAligot (£8) - The Frenchiest of mash. It doesn't quite match the artery-clogging Robuchon version, but it's pretty good all the same. 

And still room for dessert after all that? 

There should always be room for dessert. But if you're only able to manage one, this is what you need to go for (and it's ideal for sharing): 

roomGâteau Marjolaine - meringue, chocolate ganache and hazelnut (£13) - a glorious and surprisingly light dessert.

What about drinks?

As with all the Woodhead restaurants, the wine list is well worth spending time over. But before you even get there, we'd also recommend a brief stop off at the aperitifs section, as the Myrtille 75 (below) was excellent. 

As for the wines, there's a very handy rundown on what to expect from their list on the first page. In all,  it's a list that's well-balanced between those who maybe need some guidance with their choices and those who really know what they're looking for. The list is handily split into categories, so if you're not too familiar with your wine but want something "fresh & light" this will helpfully guide you. And if you really do know your wine, head to the back of the book for their cellar list, where the bottles head into the £100s and beyond.

Otherwise, there's a notably good range of wines available by the glass or carafe, with glasses starting at a very reasonable £7, but with a changing wine from their cellar list if you want to try something a little grander. On the bottle side, wines start at a very reasonable £29 a bottle, and there's a decent selection under the £50 price point.

roomWell worth ordering - the Myrtille 75 - Gin, Crémant de Bourgogne, blueberry & lemon (£13). We covet the glassware too. 

Overall thoughts

At this stage, this is a restaurant group that clearly knows what they're doing. With 64 Goodge Street, they've created a great boutique French bistro with a few twists in the heart of Fitzrovia. The lovely space is extremely warm and welcoming, the menu has some real winners and there's an excellent wine list. It's a combination that makes this an easy hit. 


More about 64 Goodge Street

Where is it? 64 Goodge St, London W1T 4NF

How to book: Book online or call 0203 747 6364.

Find out moreVisit their website or follow them on Instagram @64goodgestreet.

Hot Dinners ate as guests of 64 Goodge Street. Prices are correct at the time of writing. 


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