Test Driving 2210 by NattyCanCook, London gets a vibrant new take on Caribbean Classics

Natty at the pass

What can you tell us about 2210?

This is the first solo restaurant from Nathaniel Mortley, aka NattyCanCook, which is where the restaurant gets its full name from: 2210 by NattyCanCook. The chef has earned quite a few column inches due to his journey to the kitchen, mainly due to the time he spent rehabilitating in HMP Brixton. So he's been through a fair bit and overcome more obstacles than many do to end up with his own place.

More recently, he's been winning praise for his pop-ups and residencies, where he showcased a contemporary take on Caribbean cuisine. It's that approach which he's carrying on through 2210.

Where is it?

You'll find the restaurant very close to Herne Hill station (on the Thameslink line). It's a sizeable space and many of our photos of the room don't reveal one of its USPs, namely that it has an unobstructed view right onto Brockwell Park. If there are two of you, the tables right by the window are the ones to get, but come summer, their terrace should be a good bet too.

Inside 2210, looking out onto Brockwell Park. 

Where should we go for a drink first?

Nearby options include neighbourhood brewery and taproom Bird House Brewery, live music bar Off The Cuff and a few decent-loooking pubs. That said, there is a small bar space at 2210, and we strongly recommend the cocktails here. More about those in a bit.

So, what's on the menu?

Following on the menus Natty created for his pop-ups and supperclubs, the food here is described as featuring new and refined versions of Caribbean staples. He's taking dishes like jerk chicken or ackee and saltfish in a new direction, with a fair influence from higher-end restaurants. So the food is refined, but presented in a casual and very friendly setting.

First of all, while you're making on a decision on what to eat, you should immediately order the roti:

Roti with scotch bonnet-infused butter (£5.50) - perfect snacking food. 

Then it's a traditional three-course affair (no small plates here). To give a taste of that, here's what we had:

Ackee and saltfish spring roll, with red pepper velouté and spring onion emulsion (£12) - a new spin on a spring roll, which suits the saltfish perfectly. We also love the mad Jackson Pollock-like spray of velouté.

Confit pork belly with red cabbage slaw and scotch bonnet mayonnaise (£11) - a great crisp on the pork belly, and we also really love the slaw. That's available as a side too, and we'd strongly recommend it. 

Pan-seared pimento duck, confit leg croquette, pumpkin puree, pumpkin seed brittle (£31) - a dish which showcases just how much work is going on in the kitchen. The seared duck in particular was divine. 

Jerk chicken supreme, with pickled plantain, fried allspice terrine, mango and pineapple salsa (£28)

That's only scratching the surface of the menu, frankly, as there's a lot more that sounds just as great, from the chef's traditional oxtail with plantain (£32) to the Wiri Wiri lamb rump (£38). On the sides front, don't miss the slaw mentioned above, while the sweet fried plantain is also a must. 

Also worth a go are the Sunday lunches which sound absolutely fantastic. The key attractions there are two huge platters which include jerk chicken, ribeye, pork belly, lamb rump and Türkiye wings, chimichurri roasties (and lots of add-ons). If you're looking for a new Sunday lunch in the area, this should be top of your list, not least because the restaurant is so well-placed for a post-lunch walk around the park.

What about desserts?

At the time of writing, there are just two - and it's here where they could certainly benefit from adding a lighter option. There's an excellent apple crumble (£12), but we'd point you to the following as the priority:

Sticky toffee pudding, ginger tuile, chocolate and coffee foam (£11)

What about drinks?

There's a short cocktail list and going by the two we had, do not miss this section. Both were really well made, good and strong, with the 2210 Rum Punch narrowly coming top - so good that we immediately ordered a second.

On the left is the 2210 rum punch (dark rum, white rum, Wray and Nephew, orange juice, lychee juice, pineapple juice, lime juice, strawberry syrup, grenadine bitters, maraschino cherries, £16) and on the right Rum and sorrel sour (white rum, sorrel syrup, lime juice, vanilla syrup, egg white, angostura bitters, £16)

Everything on that cocktail list sounds fantastic, and there are a few non-alcoholic cocktails too, alongside 0% Peroni.

Overall thoughts

2210 was voted Hot Dinners readers' favourite new opening of 2025 and now that we've visited ourselves we can clearly see why it came out top. The light and airy restaurant looks great, the staff working there were uniformly lovely, and Natty himself is cooking up wonders in the kitchen. Here you'll find really accomplished food from a chef who is doing something new and different with Caribbean cuisine, and as such it's very easy to recommend.