We’d been in email and twitter conversation with new Highbury restaurant Juniper Dining for a while before we got the chance to pop in just before Christmas. We were glad we had, and annoyed it had taken us so long.
Things started well with a nice cold glass of prosecco while I waited for three other friends to turn up. It’s a good menu here from chef Rob Wilkinson, whose resume includes stints at Medcalf, Boisdale and Butler’s Wharf Chop House with plenty of seasonal specials reflecting what’s best right now.
We all started with a teeny taster bowl of broccoli and stilton soup to whet our appetite and then I ploughed into a plate of fabulously fresh devilled whitebait. These were just the ticket – crispy and delicious – although I have to admit I was also eyeing up my friend’s smoked salmon hash brown with poached egg. My main course, cod with chorizo on parsley mash was great winter fodder – firm, meaty cod matched perfectly with spicy chorizo and some seriously buttery mash. Desserts were easy – when I see panna cotta on the menu I can’t resist ordering it. Here at Juniper, it’s usually served with blueberries which I don’t like (they may be a super food, but I don’t care), so I asked for it with raspberry compote instead. This panna cotta had just the right wobblyness factor and was light and delicious.
The staff were friendly, service was faultless, the room itself was comfortable – and importantly for this time of year, really warm. We also hear good things about Juniper's weekend brunch menu, although we haven't tried it yet. This is a really great addition to the burgeoning Highbury dining scene.