Modern European
123 Queenstown Road, London SW8 3RH
Latest critic review: June 29, 2008
Modern European food in Battersea
Critic Reviews
Jay Rayner Observer
Reviewed on June 29, 2008
"Tom Ilic is a smart neighbourhood restaurant which delivers much more than that suggests. It is idiosyncratic, an expression of one man's taste. Happily, that man has very good taste indeed." READ REVIEW
"Ilic is a good cook. His food is precise, well sourced, prettily offered. It did everything you could have asked of it, with an honest goodness, and it bored me to tears." READ REVIEW
Sebastian Shakespeare ES Magazine
Reviewed on March 25, 2008
"The roast saddle and braised neck of lamb was succulent. His signature dish, assiette of pork, restores fun to the dining experience. It's like being given a jigsaw and having to identify which bit of pig you're feasting on." READ REVIEW
Marina O'Loughlin Metro
Reviewed on March 19, 2008
"Pricing is benign; the room is dull (The Food Room plus lick of paint?). But it's Ilic's testosterone-driven food that provides the colour." READ REVIEW
Zoe Williams Telegraph
Reviewed on March 16, 2008
"Just looking at the artichoke purée, with some charred beads of hazelnut pretend-casually strewn across it, set my mouth watering. Everything about the ensemble had been given some serious thought. The scallops were perfect, the pork was juicy and crunchy in all the right places, the look of it all - with its spectrum of creams and fawns - was terribly classy, like eating a posh hotel." READ REVIEW
Giles Coren Times
Reviewed on March 01, 2008
"But don’t go thinking this is trendified “peasant food”. Tom makes a big feature of presentation, so that his platefuls are picture pretty, but without the faff of towers and arty sludge-smears. That way, you get an upscale feel at low, low prices." READ REVIEW
"Richard & Peter" Harden's
Reviewed by January 29, 2008
"The wine list is sensible, and sensibly-priced, contributing to the feeling that this is a place we’d be pleased to have at the bottom of our street." READ REVIEW
"No surprise then that my starter - two plump braised pig's cheeks pillowed with lip-smacking chorizo and snuggled in sinfully creamy garlic mash (£5.50) - was superbly moreish and worryingly filling." READ REVIEW
"Yet there's something not quite right about his latest venture: the service. Our young waitresses dashed around as if they were manning a chain pizzeria, wasting little time with pleasantries, slamming down and snatching plates from the bare tables as if they work in a caff, and - literally - running between tables and the kitchen. It just doesn't set the right tone for cooking of this elegance." READ REVIEW
Fay Maschler Evening Standard
Reviewed on November 21, 2007
"The signature dish is probably assiette of pork - I remember previous incarnations assembling four or five exemplars of nose-to-tail eating - but I couldn't persuade my companion to shift from her choice of croustillant of mushrooms, white onion and truffle fondue with which she seemed delighted." READ REVIEW
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