Artisinal is the m/o here.

Raef Hodgson opened this place with business partner Harry mid-2011 in one of the Maltby St arches. Their Thurs, Fri evenings are fun communal table events for a prix fixe - plus wine.

But for me the real joy is Saturday lunch at the bar. Buzzy atmosphere full of locals who've shopped for artinisal joys in the other arches - it's knocked Borough Market into a cocked hat for cool.

Raef and Harry source rare, affordable mainly French and Italian wines by the glass. But the food is what you go for - honest plates of fabulous ham, great bread, inventive salads, bit of partridge here, unctuous sausage there.

Two w/es ago I nearly died of pleasure - silvery slivers of soppresata (pig heid brawn)geniusly dressed with zingy orange rind. Best thing I'd tasted all year - ok, it was 7 Jan. There's more to come.