Review The Giaconda Dining Room Hot

The Giaconda Dining Room

Fusion 
9 Denmark St, Soho, WC2H 8LS
Latest critic review: November 15, 2008
Critics' score: 7.5 out of 10 Users' score: 7.0 out of 10



The Giaconda Dining Room

Paul Merrony brings affordable dining to central London...


Critic Reviews


Giles Coren Times
Reviewed on November 15, 2008
"...exactly what old-fashioned, honest-to-goodness foodies think ought to be opening at a time like this (and at all other times): a straightforward French corner bistro, using cheap cuts, packing a lot of people into a small space and smiling a lot." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 8
Zoe Williams Telegraph
Reviewed on November 02, 2008
You could walk away feeling as if you'd been to Pisa for an evening, or you could feel like you'd got all dolled up for dinner in a European transport caff. As reasonable as the prices are, it needs more consistency before it becomes a gem. READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 6
Matthew Norman Guardian
Reviewed on October 18, 2008
"This is an unusual and richly enticing menu in which Merrony, an Aussie who has worked under at least one Roux brother and at the legendary Tour D'Argent in Paris, unleashes the rigorous accuracy of classical French technique on the kind of inexpensive ingredients (cheaper cuts of meat, pâtés, salads) of which we'll be seeing more in the years ahead, and makes them sing like angels." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 9.5
Jan Moir Are you ready to order
Reviewed on September 04, 2008
"...the Giaconda is insider heaven; an uptown gourmet experience in a downtown shack. It takes a big man with a big heart and enormous foresight to put out such terrific quality food at such small prices." READ REVIEW
Estimated score
Critic's score: 8
Jay Rayner Observer
Reviewed on August 31, 2008
"It is a small, humble, perfectly positioned restaurant, doing what it does very well. And, as I say, we have very little of that in Britain today." READ REVIEW
Estimated score
Critic's score: 7
Guy Dimond Time Out
Reviewed by August 21, 2008
"The cooking can be excellent, yet there’s no showiness or pretension; Tracey is both no-nonsense and friendly, the atmosphere relaxed and surprisingly neighbourly for W1." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 8.5
Fay Maschler Evening Standard
Reviewed on July 30, 2008
"Would that there were more such straightforward restaurants run by a passionate chef with a healthy appetite, especially in the surrounding Soho area."
Critic's score: 8
Dos Hermanos Dos Hermanos
Reviewed on July 24, 2008
"...it’s just an honest and enjoyable place to have a meal in Central London. We’d go back – which is really all you need to know." READ REVIEW
Estimated score
Critic's score: 7
Terry Durack Independent
Reviewed on July 13, 2008
"If you want to survive the tough times ahead predicted by the Bank of England, find yourself a cook who knows how to do things well, fast and cheap... I've found mine, and I'm not leaving until Mervyn King says I can." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 7.5
 

User reviews

Average user rating from: 2 user(s)

Overall rating 
 
7.0  (2)
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The Giaconda Dining Room 2010-04-25 20:50:37 Catherine Hanly
Overall rating 
 
6.0
Catherine Hanly Reviewed by Catherine Hanly    April 25, 2010

Good - but desserts let the meal down

After a hard evening sampling the best canapés The Ivy had to offer at the launch party of the London Restaurant Festival 2010, Hot Dinners were in need of greater sustenance, so we headed north two streets to the Giaconda Dining Room and scored the very last free table in a packed room on a Tuesday night. Having already scoffed plenty of starters at the Ivy, we went straight into main courses of ham hock breaded hash and a chilli crab linguine, both of which were exac tly what we needed – the hash had been formed into a patty and breadcrumbed, but was delicious and the crab linguine was dense with dark crab meat. Desserts weren’t quite so good – the Eton mess came with rock hard meringue and raspberries rather than the billed strawberries and the crème brulee was a little too lemony.

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The Giaconda Dining Room 2009-06-19 10:19:42 Suzie Doore
Overall rating 
 
8.0
Suzie Doore Reviewed by Suzie Doore    June 19, 2009

Recommended

La Giaconda, as mentioned in the critics' reviews, feels like a real hidden gem - it's hidden away on grotty Denmark Street and is really tiny, but the food is delicious and the waitress very attentive and friendly. The only odd thing was the toilets - you go out through an Alice-in-Wonderland sized door and suddenly you're in a dingy corridor like a student flatshare, with handwritten signs pointing you to a distinctly underwhelming cubicle. I can't fault anything else though. Great steak and really nice fish starter, and they have a long list of specials each day which the waitress had very impressively memorised. She could do with a blackboard..

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More Details
• 
Fusion 
Address
9 Denmark St, Soho, WC2H 8LS
Telephone
020 7240 3334
Nearest Tube
Tottenham Court Road
Opening times:
Lunch (from Midday), Monday to Friday - last main course order 2.15 pm; Dinner (from 6.00pm), Monday to Friday - last main course order 9.45 pm

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