Hot Dinners

Review

North Road Hot


69-73 St John Street, London EC1M 4AN
Latest critic review: July 03, 2012
Critics' score: 7 out of 10 Users' score: 7.0 out of 10
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Fig bistro in Islington's leafy Barnsbury ward won a strong neighbourhood following. Now chef Christoffer Hruskova has opened a second restaurant where he'll offer cuisine inspired by his Danish roots.

Reviews

Critic Reviews

Steve Dineen City AM
Reviewed on July 03, 2012
"At its best, the food is superlative. The asparagus – poached, fried and, of course, raw – with pheasant’s egg, was a highlight: just the right combination of crisp and earthy." READ REVIEW

Anna Tyzack Telegraph
Reviewed on June 05, 2012
"(Hruskova) is definitely showing Smithfield that fresh and locally sourced can also mean vibrant and light." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 9
AA Gill Sunday Times
Reviewed on April 03, 2011
"Everything tastes of outdoors, like the wind off a moor or autumn birches freshly turned out. Moss and peat, rain and fungal stumps. It’s clever and it’s poignant, quietly sad. It’s food that is very Scandinavian." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 8
Giles Coren Times
Reviewed on April 02, 2011
"In the end I was left with mouth memories reminiscent of Noma: raw fish, smoked things, dark flesh, salt, bitter herbs, almost no carbohydrates, very interesting, still hungry." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 7
John Lanchester Guardian
Reviewed on March 05, 2011
"Given (an) initial wariness, North Road was a pleasant surprise, with some real high points. One of the best ideas – caramelised pork jelly – while not original, was still brilliant, setting off a leg of pork cooked in hay and three "textures" of celeriac, raw, puréed and fried." READ REVIEW
Estimated score
Critic's score: 7
Zoe Williams Telegraph
Reviewed on January 31, 2011
"The fish was competently cooked, very fresh and meaty, spruced up by wild watercress and complemented well by some salty, fleshy clams. There was nothing not to like, though likewise nothing to go totally wild over, unless you really, really like cress." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 4
Anon City AM
Reviewed on January 06, 2011
"The food at North Road – by Danish chef Christoffer Hruskova, who has worked around the world and also runs Islington favourite Fig Bistro – is precise, colourful, imaginative and light. And it’s frankly refreshing to eat several courses and not feel as though you’d sink a boat were you to step on board." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 8
Jay Rayner Observer
Reviewed on December 19, 2010
"Hruskova's cooking is about as close as you'll get to Redzepi's without buying a plane ticket, though to be honest it's still some way off the precision and acute sense of balance. It's good without having Redzepi's brilliance." READ REVIEW
Estimated score
Critic's score: 7
Marina O'Loughlin Metro
Reviewed by December 07, 2010
"Whether Hruskova likes it or not, piggybacking on a major trend isn’t a bad thing. And while his cooking isn’t as out-there as the greatest excesses, sorry, intricacies, of Redzepi, it works very well as a beginner’s guide to this most fascinating school of eating." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 6
Fay Maschler Evening Standard
Reviewed on November 25, 2010
"Dorset brill with stewed salsify and herb oil was utterly delicious and proof of what I think, which is that there is quite a lot to be said for this neutered, purse-lipped, Nordic approach once we cease to compare it to the symbolic warmth and sexiness of the much more familiar Mediterranean tradition." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 6
Guy Dimond Time Out
Reviewed on November 24, 2010
"North Road doesn't serve New Nordic Cusine, but it's as close as we've seen so far in London." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 8
Hermano Primero Dos Hermanos
Reviewed on November 24, 2010
"A small fillet of baby cow was pink and delicious as was a roundel of the braised and shredded tail, the whole topped with shreds of Veal breast. I may have got the last two bits mixed up but in any case it was terrific cooking." READ REVIEW
Estimated score
Critic's score: 8
 

User reviews

Average user rating from: 2 user(s)

Overall rating 
 
7.0  (2)
Ratings (the higher the better)
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Now entering its 2nd year and having been almost monthly to North Road, it continues to shine as one of the most inventive and interesting restaurants London has to offer. Not part of the growing "chain" of Michelin star eateries, it brings a breath of fresh air to the dining scene. Sound philosophy around its suppliers, a constantly changing menu, coupled with food and service that more than deserves its Michelin star (2 stars in the next round?)
Overall rating 
 
10.0
Reviewed by John April 25, 2012

Shining star

Now entering its 2nd year and having been almost monthly to North Road, it continues to shine as one of the most inventive and interesting restaurants London has to offer. Not part of the growing "chain" of Michelin star eateries, it brings a breath of fresh air to the dining scene. Sound philosophy around its suppliers, a constantly changing menu, coupled with food and service that more than deserves its Michelin star (2 stars in the next round?)

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We had a first bad experience (fish and chicken skins oily and salty, pickled quail eggs rather tart, and veal so tough it was not easy to chew), and a better experience although the predominant taste of the food was 'hickory smoke' including the dessert. If this is what all the food critiques have been raving about, then they wouldn't be so hard to please. If this is what Scandinavian food is about, then it would be rather disappointing. Service was very average, and the decor was rather cold and impersonal.
Overall rating 
 
4.0
Reviewed by Toine January 08, 2011

Mixed feelings

We had a first bad experience (fish and chicken skins oily and salty, pickled quail eggs rather tart, and veal so tough it was not easy to chew), and a better experience although the predominant taste of the food was 'hickory smoke' including the dessert. If this is what all the food critiques have been raving about, then they wouldn't be so hard to please. If this is what Scandinavian food is about, then it would be rather disappointing. Service was very average, and the decor was rather cold and impersonal.

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Map and more information

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Address69-73 St John Street, London EC1M 4AN
Telephone number 0203 217 0033
Telephone numberAverage price: Moderate
Michelin star 1 Michelin star
trainFarringdon
Opening timesMon-Thurs: 12pm - 2.30pm; 6pm - 10.30pm. Fri: 12pm - 2.30pm; 6pm - 11pm Sat: 6pm - 11pm
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