"Not just the stand-out but the stand-up dish, as in stand up and applaud: for the fideos with prawns, saffron and aïoli, which are little inch-long strands of vermicelli-like pasta, cooked in a serious prawn stock and served with some lean, lithe little prawns and a splodge of fantastic, light, not-too-garlicky aïoli – is a perfect thing."
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