5 Pollen Street, Mayfair, London W1S 1ND
Latest critic review: July 07, 2013
Hot Dinners Test Drive
The best of the wave of new French style in London
Maybe hold off on Balthazar (the food, somewhat disappointingly, isn't - yet anyway - the reason to go). Definitely go to Chavot - up there with the best. But take whatever booking you can get at Little Social (and it may be a while, this restaurant is petit).
Service is from a mostly French team, charmant, professional, just all-round lovely.
Roasted halibut 'BLT' was translucent and silky and the accompanying 'bacon' lettuce and tomato clever without being cutesy. Braised ox cheeks fell apart on contact with the fork (no knife required for this) and the stock-rich glossy sauce (poured on a la table, from a silver jug) was unctuous. A miniature spoon is speared in the top of the bone marrow to dig it out with.
Desserts of Apple and blackberry crumble, served from a copper pan, also a la table) and a paragon of chocolate moelleux, in a cup, with a boulette of sea salt and almond ice cream (to be tipped in to the melted pool of warm rich moelleux) were outstanding.
Reasonably priced for this quality. Top end food in a room which echos olden-France, but oh so au courant.