Italian
Arcade House, 13 Albemarle St, London, W1S 4HJ
Latest critic review: August 16, 2009
Revamped Italian in Mayfair
Ownership of this Mayfair restaurant hasn't changed, but there's a new man in the kitchen. Riccardo de Pra, is of good Italian cooking stock - his family own the Michelin-starred Ristorante Albergo Dolada in the Veneto. Prices are punchy - but the targeted clientele here probably won't quibble with that.
Critic Reviews
AA Gill Sunday Times
Reviewed on August 16, 2009
"As for the food... It has all the things that you associate with the Veneto: expensive ingredients even more expensively sold, treated with a tentative flamboyance, and more charm than love." READ REVIEW
Giles Coren Times
Reviewed by July 11, 2009
"Staggering prices. Prices to make Roman Abramovich slap his hand to his forehead, stagger backwards and sell Michael Ballack to a glue factory." READ REVIEW
Marina O'Loughlin Metro
Reviewed on May 06, 2009
"The food just misses being staggeringly good, though some dishes – like that pigeon, ripely gamey, ruby red, enriched with liver and the sticky sweetness of Marsala and served on a slump of perfect polenta – actually get there." READ REVIEW
"Richard & Peter" Harden's
Reviewed on February 27, 2009
"Another factor which doesn’t ever really seem to change is the quality of the Italian cooking. We’ve always found it fine but pricey for what it is, and the latest incarnation – though the chef is part of the Italian establishment’s founding family – seems no different." READ REVIEW
"Wild pigeon with Marsala-braised shallots was served from a copper pan, which was left on the table. The meat, already carved into rosy pink slices, was a triumphant bosky result for a bird that is tricky to get right." READ REVIEW
