Steakhouse
34 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 2HD
Latest critic review: February 10, 2012
Grill restaurant from Caprice
The people behind Le Caprice and Scott's have opened a 100-seat steak restaurant in the heart of Mayfair - expect it to be a celebrity haunt. It has a focus on rare breeds and game, while also offering a collection of lighter dishes. It's designed by Martin Brudnizki who also designed Hix, Scott's, Dean St Townhouse and Les Deux Salons among many more.
Critic Reviews
Nicholas Lander Financial Times
Reviewed on February 10, 2012
"34’s culinary distinction is that it is not just the steaks that shine." READ REVIEW
"Everything we eat is almost excellent. Almost. It speaks of a well-drilled kitchen but I’m not really feeling the love." READ REVIEW
Richard Vines Bloomberg
Reviewed on January 18, 2012
"I like 34 and I’ll go back. The dining room (designed by Martin Brudnizki) is so elegant, it’s like a magnet. The service is better than I’ve experienced at other Caring restaurants." READ REVIEW
Zoe Williams Telegraph
Reviewed on January 22, 2012
"I don't want to sound coarse by banging on, but this certainly isn't a budget choice: however, it was indulgent, nostalgic and exciting, like lying on a rug made of a tiger. I loved it." READ REVIEW
Tracey MacLeod Independent
Reviewed on January 21, 2012
"For me, 34 lacked the theatrical buzziness of rival opening, The Delaunay. But it will doubtless become a favourite of the Mayfair set, who can watch their steaks sizzling on the grill, all trace of smoke whisked away by a top-of-the-range air conditioning system." READ REVIEW
Giles Coren Times
Reviewed on January 21, 2012
"It’s just not in a place that I or anyone like me is ever going to be walking past when they happen to be hungry." READ REVIEW
John Lanchester Guardian
Reviewed by January 20, 2012
"(price) allowances made, 34 is, in its unobtrusive way, very good. You notice the food only if you consciously choose to pay attention – it doesn't raise its voice – but if you do, you'll see that the cooking is bang on target." READ REVIEW
"Everything, from the look of the place through the killer steaks to the desserts, is bang on. It is sexy and smart. Most of all it feels like it has been there for years rather than just a few weeks." READ REVIEW
"I had the now-ubiquitous wagyu sirloin, which I ordered rare, and came medium, verging on well done. It was the only thing that was well done." READ REVIEW
Stephen Farmer View London
Reviewed on December 01, 2011
"This is a steakhouse for the well-to-do, and it’ll no doubt thrive for that very reason." READ REVIEW
If anyone reading this has been to a “soft opening” of a restaurant, you will appreciate the nerves everyone is going through. Front of house are tetchy as they have to deliver and the chefs and kitchen staff are still learning and developing the menu, so it is perfect for the actual opening. Hmmm, recipe for disaster????
We (an excited group of 4) were lucky enough to attend the soft opening of the new offering from the Caprice holdings group, 34, which officially opens this Thursday. We went a few days before and the kitchen was in full swing. Led by Paul Brown, formerly head chef of world famous La Caprice, he’s built the sharpest team of chefs from the group who have created, tried, tested, removed, added, removed again and finally perfected a menu which will keep any one from a supermodel to a sumo wrestler happy. London has as many grill houses as Britain has out of work bankers, so is competing with establishments such as Goodmans, Gaucho, Black and Blue…list goes on!
The resounding comment from our group was,”34 is on another level”.
1920’s art deco style was very well executed, classy without being intimidating, with a hint of fresh Farrow and Ball in the air. We started with a “34 precious” cocktail which was impressively built, punchy on the booze, but set the night off well.
Dinner entertainment at 34 offers the opportunity to watch the masters of the kitchen in operation, over one of the largest coal burning Parrilla grills imported from Argentina, burning the finest charcoal to add to the flavour. While facing the diners, this set up offers the chefs the opportunity to show how smooth the kitchen can be run while you watch your succulent USDA/Wagyu/Kobe steaks or a delicate Meatball Spaghetti main get prepared.
Now as a Greek, I know a thing or two about Lamb. After a starter of smoked salmon which was light and fresh, I picked up the custom made 34 cutlery and tucked into the most amazing Lamb mix grill. Out of the 4 different cuts of lamb, the highlight was the plump, juicy cutlet. My fellow diners tucked into a beautiful and aromatic fish dish, and a USDA rib eye (which I tried and it melted in your mouth).
There was also the option to have a 700g Sirloin, carved by the chefs and then served on a warm copper grill at the table, which I think is on the cards for next time! Sides were separate but perfectly seasoned. We had creamed spinach, fries and fluffy, crisp onion rings. Nothing was left.
After all this was a desert menu which provided some delicate, light and elegant dishes not normally associated at a Grill house. Perfect.
Being situated close the US embassy off of Grosvenor Square, I can easily see this being a haunt for both meat eaters and lovers of a BBQ grill. The strength is on the calmness of the kitchen led by Paul, swiftness of the service and a place to unwind and have a good old fashioned, perfect steak!
