British
19 Blandford St, London W1U 3DH
Latest critic review: November 13, 2011
Simon Rogan's London outpost.
Simon Rogan's L'Enclume is held up to be one of the best restaurants in the UK, so if anyone fancies trying his food but doesn't want to trek to Cumbria, here's your chance. The restaurant will only be open for 2 years. It's a tiny space, seating only 35 - so demand is high.
"Place not very diner-oriented. Dishes not really surprising enough. This level of atmospheric austerity rather demands quiet fireworks on the plate. Lot of money. 300." READ REVIEW
Zoe Williams
Telegraph
Reviewed on November 13, 2011
"I was fascinated, dazzled sometimes, although I didn't love everything I ate, any more than you could love everything you saw in a Gerhard Richter retrospective." READ REVIEW
John Lanchester Guardian
Reviewed on September 03, 2011
"It made me keen to visit Rogan's headquarters in Cumbria, which I suspect is part of the point." READ REVIEW
"Of course it’s expensive. But if the old ‘fayn dayning’ floats your boat, this – contemporary, light, assured, revelatory – is as good as it gets in London right now." READ REVIEW
Matthew Norman Telegraph
Reviewed on August 16, 2011
"While “heritage potatoes in onion ashes, lovage and wood sorrel” arrived on a plate that would have been visible from space, the spuds themselves invited the traditional battle-cry of the disappointed trencherman: “Hubble telescope to table three!” " READ REVIEW
Tracey MacLeod Independent
Reviewed on July 30, 2011
"I'm not generally a fan of cooking which involves tweezering microscopic ingredients onto weirdly-shaped plates, but here the flavour combinations really do repay the mind-boggling amount of labour that has gone into each dish." READ REVIEW
Timothy Barber City AM
Reviewed by July 26, 2011
"A flurry of dishes in which the tiny amount of tucker in front of you seems in direct inverse proportion to the intricacy of the cooking, the artfulness of the construction and the mesmeric vibrancy of the flavours." READ REVIEW
Lisa Markwell Independent
Reviewed on July 17, 2011
"The skill of the perfectly judged menu ensures that I feel sated but not stuffed." READ REVIEW
Roopa Gulati Time Out
Reviewed on July 12, 2011
"Had we been asked to provide constructive criticism, we'd suggest a simpler menu with a focus on subtlety and contrasting flavours." READ REVIEW
Fay Maschler Evening Standard
Reviewed on July 07, 2011
"(potatoes in onion ashes) is the one dish that has migrated from L'Enclume and the three small spuds in allium-sweet woodsy cinders become one of the definite highlights of the evening." READ REVIEW
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