The Rex Whistler restaurant in the Tate has, since reopening last November, earned a reputation for being one of the most impressive gallery restaurants in London. Whilst the notion of choosing to dine at the Tate may perhaps seem a little over the top for some, a recent dinner in its ornate surroundings showed that this is one permanent exhibition you’ll want to see again.
Open usually for lunch only, Rex Whistler throws open its beautifully restored art deco doors for special dinner events held on the first Friday of every other month. The evening events are often built around a theme, drawing inspiration from the Tate’s extensive collection of historic and contemporary British art. We headed down to the most recent event a few weeks back for a civilised Friday night of fine food, wine and art.
Entitled ‘The game season’, this celebration of the best of British game saw a four course menu created by head chef Nathan Brewster, inspired by works of art from the permanent Game Collection in the gallery. These were accompanied by wine pairings from their extensive and much-lauded wine list, maintained by Sommelier and Master of Wine, Hamish Anderson.
First up was a beautifully presented amuse bouche of poached rainbow trout, poached potato and picked cucumber. A lovely few mouthfuls that sat well with a dry and aromatic Chenin Blanc from Anjou. Another strikingly plated dish was the Venison Carpaccio. Lively aromas of the meat were massaged into form with the help of a wibbly celeriac panna cotta and juniper dressing. An equally lively, young Sangiovese accompanied this from renown Tuscan producer, Sesti.
As with any good exhibition, the experience is always kept interesting with a few surprises. This first came in the form of a Pike perch tortellini, laid atop crayfish tails, enveloped with a vibrant orange bisque which was just as punchy as it was eye catching. The second surprise was a shift back to white wine, sometimes a tricky manoeuvre when navigating via red, but not an issue in this case, Navazos-Niepoort, a weighty Andalusian white was made for consuming with seafood.
The main part, a tribute to game remained true to form. A traditionally plated Partridge breast, horseradish dauphinoise with buttered savoy cabbage served with a lovely dense Moulin a Vent Beaujolais Cru, a reminder that although the restaurant is situated on the doorstep of Whitehall, it’s still a world away from the Parliamentary dining rooms.
This was rounded off by a splendid spiced apple sponge, delivered to the table alongside a sappy straw wine from South African producer Glen Carlou. A masterstroke we both agreed.
The next Friday dinner event at Rex Whistler is on 5 December and will focus on the influential watercolour painter J.M.W Turner, who is currently being exhibited. The 5 December event will focus on Turners’ travel around the Rhineland in the early 1800s - a perfect excuse for lovers of German wine to visit.
The Rex Whistler restaurant is at Tate Britain - Millbank, London SW1P 4RG. To reserve a place e-mail Rex Whistler restaurant on britain.restaurant@tate.org.uk or call 0207 887 8825.
Hot Dinners were invited to eat at the Rex Whistler restaurant.
Follow Louis Fernando on Twitter at @tuckandvine and on his website Tuck & Vine.
