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Test Driving Carlotta - Big Mamma's Marylebone home continues their winning streak

roomThe main ground-floor dining room at Carlotta - you can just see where it opens up into the skylight towards the back.

So what is Carlotta?

Carlotta is the latest restaurant from the Big Mamma Group - also behind the likes of Circolo Popolare and Gloria. This, their latest restaurant is all about serving up Neapolitan and Sicilian classics with an Americano twist in a more "intimate" setting than usual. 

Hang on - another Big Mamma restaurant?

Yes indeed, it's been less than four months since their last opening, Jacuzzi in Knightsbridge, so this is prolific even for a restaurant group opening places as quickly as Big Mamma do. It seems that "intimate" vibe they've been mentioning is helping to differentiate it a little from some of its other restaurants. The main restaurant, which you can see above, is slightly (only slightly, mind) less flamboyant than some of its other openings. This is probably something that's done to make it fit into the Marylebone area a little more, and it does make it seem like a more "grown-up" Big Mamma restaurant (for lack of a better description). 

That said, it's not all reined in. Some of the tables actually have underlighting (see below). It looks impressive, but good luck getting a decent photo of food on one of those tables. The toilets are pretty out-there too, dominated by a statue of the Virgin Mary right above the wash basins. 

So at first glance, it may seem a little less "extra" than the other Big Mamma restaurants, but there are definitely outré elements peppered throughout. 

Carlotta collageSome of the tables in Carlotta are actually underlit (top left) and there's a huge skylight on the ground floor too - a seat near that is ideal.  

So in all of this, where should we sit?

Overall, it's a much bigger restaurant than it seems when you first walk in. If you look at the photo at the top of the page, it still goes back a long way down the corridor you can just see on the right. But we'd say the best room is the first one you'll come to on the ground floor. And if it's still light outside, the tables towards the back underneath the glass skylight are the best. 

That said, it does get a little more in-your-face when you go downstairs and that's probably the place to head if you're more in a party mood

roomThere's a very different vibe downstairs, and this is where the kitchen is too. 

Where actually is it?

You'll find it near the top end of Marylebone High Street, with the nearest station being Baker Street. If you're familiar with the area, it's taken over what used to be The Natural Kitchen. 

Where should we meet for a drink first?

As you enter Carlotta, there's a really nice, small and very gold bar just inside the entrance. If you get there before your table is ready or want a small drink before eating, this is a very pleasant space. In the area around the restaurant, your best bet would probably be The Italians wine bar that's just around the corner or maybe a quick pint in the nearby Prince Regent.  

And what about the food?

If you're new to Big Mamma - here's the basic lowdown. Expect a large Italian menu, with some dishes tending towards the more extravagant and portions that are definitely on the large size. Generally speaking, for what you're getting, it's relatively good value too. It isn't going to be the greatest Italian restaurant in the world - but we'd suggest that's not what people come to Big Mamma restaurants for anyway. It can be a bit of a party place or a special occasion where you're not harming the wallet too much. 

If you're familiar with Big Mamma already, you'll know the drill by now. The menu is set out in a familiar way - antipasti, pasta, pizza, larger main plates (with some big sharing dishes like a Florentine T-Bone) and big desserts. 

With all that in mind, we made an effort to try some of the newer dishes:

roomTartare Di Vitello Tonnato - High-welfare rosé veal tartare with salsa tonnata, shallots, capers, soft-boiled quail egg, served with sourdough crostini (£17)

roomShrimp Cocktail - Tempura shrimp served with Marie Rose sauce, crispy celery, carrot and cucumber pinzimonio (£16)

roomTortelloni With Lamb Ragù - Hand-made tortelloni stuffed with a spicy Cornish lamb ragù, served atop a rich tomato sauce with Parmigiano Reggiano, chili and fresh basil (£24)

roomLOBSTER CARLOTTA (£48 per person) - 1kg deshelled Cornish lobster which comes with...

room.. beurre blanc sauce and (for an extra £20) you get 20g of black Venetian caviar from Maison Kaviari. This is served with Carlotta's crispy potatoes and salad on the side. 

And what about dessert?

If you've been to a Big Mamma restaurant before, you'll know you need to save room - quite a lot of room - for dessert. Their most well-known dish, lemon meringue pie, isn't on the menu here (although their tiramisu does make an appearance), but a huge meringue cake has taken its place. 

Carlotta collageCarlotta's Wedding Cake (£14) - Layers of almond génoise and raspberry, topped with a light vanilla cream, raspberry coulis and meringue. If you're aiming for one dessert, this is the one to go for. Delivered with a certain flourish, it's easily enough for two to share. 

Carlotta collageBurnt vanilla cheesecake (£9) - Big Mamma does Basque cheesecake and it's really not a bad attempt at all, being pleasingly creamy. 

What's on the drinks list?

Wines start at £29 which is a pretty good entry-level starting point for a London restaurant these days (that's a Sicilian Chardonnay) and even fizz begins at £34 (for Emilia Romagna Lambrusco). There's a fair bit to choose from in the sub £40 price point but if you're splashing out, it'll be for the Tuscan Le Pergole Torte Toscana I.G.T. 2019 at £284. 

Each Big Mamma restaurant brings with it a new cocktail list - and this is no exception. On the list, you'll find drinks like the Cedroni (Chamomile infused Campari, Martini Rubino, Beefeater gin, Nardini acqua di cedro - £11) but the one you'll really want is this:

roomSavoiardi Martini - Vecchia Romagna Brandy, FAIR Café liqueur, espresso and an indulgent savoiardi syrup (£12) - it's all served in an actual Italian espresso pot for added theatre.

Overall thoughts

Big Mamma has found a niche in the dining-out scene and continues to mine it pretty well. Here with Carlotta they've managed to create an impressive space that's quite unlike anything else in the area. The food is still enjoyable without being groundbreaking, but put that together with the impressive space and they clearly have another winner on their hands. 

Hot Dinners ate as guests of Carlotta. Prices are correct at the time of writing. 

 

More about Carlotta

Where is it? 77-78 Marylebone High St, London W1U 5JX

Find out moreVisit their website or follow them on Instagram @bigmamma.uk.

 

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