Hot Dinners

Restaurant review charts - week ending May 20

Our latest round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. Dabbous goes up a notch, The Ledbury and Sketch get revisited and Mari Vanna gets raves too....

Dabbous - overall score 9.5/10 (up 0.5)
Dabbous

AA Gill - Sunday Times
10

Choice quote: "Every single dish, every plate made with such finesse, such a careful balance of flavour and texture, so much dexterous consideration for how it will be eaten, the most pleasing and simplest way to show off each ingredient to its best advantage."
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See all the Dabbous reviews

The Ledbury - overall score 8.5/10 (no change)
The Ledbury

AA Gill - Sunday Times
8

Choice quote: "The Ledbury is far better than I remember it. The cooking is refined and calm. It resists unnecessary exclamations or startling contradictions. It doesn’t test your palate or demand attention. It just is a very good lunch, at a hefty price."
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See all the Ledbury reviews

Sketch Lecture Room and Library - overall score 8/10 (no change)
Sketch Lecture Room and Library

Tracey Macleod - Independent
8

Choice quote: "Still, the Lecture Room does feel more playful and relaxed than most Michelin-starred joints. At one point, Alison emerged from the loo wide-eyed, having shared the space with what she described as a "porn star". You don't get that at Le Gavroche."
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See all the Sketch Lecture Room and Library reviews

Mari Vanna - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Mari Vanna

John Lanchester - Guardian
8
Estimated score
Choice quote: "It is the busiest, cosiest, homeliest, least restaurant-like restaurant imaginable. The very obvious idea is to target well-off nostalgic former citizens of the old country... The food is wonderful, too, in its way – its very, very Russian way."
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Jay Rayner - Observer
8
Estimated score
Choice quote: "Mari Vanna, named after a fictional hostess, is what it is: a kitsch and loving take on the culinary traditions of Russia."
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See all the Mari Vanna reviews

Briciole - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
Briciole

John Walsh - Independent
5.5

Choice quote: "It's not a backstreet-nibbles bar (like Polpo and its Venetian-bacaro offshoots) nor a full-blown restaurant experience. It's essentially a simple trattoria with lots of charm but one or two delusions of grandeur."
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See all the Briciole reviews

Ceviche - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Ceviche

Giles Coren - Times
7.5

Choice quote: "This place is brilliant. The cooking is super-confident, rare and interesting, the look of the room is great and the bar must be fantastic in the evening, the music is lovely, the staff are incredibly sweet and kind... And it’s cheap."
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See all the Ceviche reviews

Meat Market - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Meat Market

Tania Ballantine - Time Out
6

Choice quote: "The cool will come here because it screams: 'I'm hip, I'm in the know,' and the diehard groupies won't mind if the queue snakes down the stairs, as the burgers are so good."
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Kelly Hussey - View London
8

Choice quote: "This is just fast food, albeit fast food with a funky twist. Don’t come expecting the greatness of the flagship burger joint and you won’t be disappointed."
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See all the Meat Market reviews

Hix Belgravia - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Hix Belgravia

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

Choice quote: "...oddly, of all the Hix restaurants I’ve eaten in, this is the one where I’ve liked the food best. Sadly, it’s being served in a restaurant with no perceptible appeal – I can’t imagine wanting to go back."
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See all the Hix Belgravia reviews

Market Cafe - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Market Cafe

Jay Rayner - Observer
7
Estimated score

Choice quote: "Most of what we ate was far better than OK. Those devilled kidneys were pert and soft and proper pink at the centre and came with a spiky sauce and a thick piece of sourdough toast. A truffled rarebit may have been light on the truffle bit, but the rarebit bit was all cheese and mustard and punch."
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John O' Ceallaigh - Telegraph
4

Choice quote: "...being left humiliated as well as hungry somehow seems a strangely fitting end to our Market Café experience."
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See all the Market Cafe reviews

La Bodega Negra - overall score 5.5/10 (no change)
La Bodega Negra

Zoe Williams - Telegraph
7

Choice quote: "I loved the zingy atmosphere the most, then the tostaditas, then the feeling of innovation... I'd come again despite the two-hour limit, and I don't say that lightly."
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See all the La Bodega Negra reviews

Cotidie - overall score 5.5/10 (up 0.5)
Cotidie

Zoe Williams - Telegraph
7

Choice quote: "The puds lacked passion and the atmosphere is hotelly, but much of the cooking is magnificent."
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See all the Cotidie reviews

Lowcountry - overall score 4/10 (new entry)
Lowcountry

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
4

Choice quote: "The shrimp with grits featured prawns so undercooked as to be worrying and grits as a rather repellent slop. “Half-a-freakin’-chicken” was half a roasted chicken with no defining seasoning."
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See all the Lowcountry reviews


ALSO REVIEWED

Bunga Bunga

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro: "Despite being so far removed from the target audience as to be virtually a different species, I’d go back. And why can’t I get the refrain ‘unlimited prosecco brunch’ out of my head?"
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Saporitalia

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro: "My Aperol spritz is flat and staff are endearingly ditsy. But that pizza makes up for any shortcomings:  a thing of beauty."
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FM Mangal

Lisa Markwell - Independent: "Everything is seasoned beautifully, the meat the ideal marriage of charred exterior and tender insides; the quail just edges the prize. If my son was here he'd say they've got mad skills (or something...)."
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Erebuni

Matthew Norman - Telegraph: "...the standout dish was Ukha Tsarskaya, which mingled sturgeon and salmon with potato, tomato, pickled cucumber, black olives and dill in a peppery, spicy, lemony broth that released a distinct new flavour with each spoonful. Weird and wonderful in equal measure, this favourite of Peter the Great is both the soup of kings and a king among soups."
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The Blacksmith & The Toffeemaker

Amol Rajan - Independent: "Situated on an open corner opposite City University, it appears to be a lovely spot for a pint on a summer evening – far more than it can claim to be a dining destination."
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To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews.

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