Hot Dinners

Restaurant review charts - week ending 8 January

Our latest fortnightly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviewssection. This week we catch up on the reviews over the Christmas period, including new entries for Alyn Williams, Pizarro, Burger & Lobster and more...

Alyn Williams at the Westbury - overall score 9.5/10 (new entry)
Alyn Williams at the Westbury

Anon - City AM
9.5

Choice quote: "Williams is a master of his game; his subtle flavours seem effortless; the sommelier’s wine recommendations were spot on."
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Amelia Hanslow - View London
10

Choice quote: "The tasting menus are incredibly good value and you get the feeling that every time you visit there’ll be another dish to get excited about."
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See all the Alyn Williams at the Wesbury reviews

Pizarro - overall score 8.5/10 (new entry)
Pizarro

Guy Dimond - Time Out
8

Choice quote: "Among the highlights of our meal were duck livers served with capers and fino sherry, a clever combination of feral flavours cut with acidity."
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Kelly Hussey - View London
10

Choice quote: "Pizarro gets it all pretty much spot on, showcasing everything that's good about this great culinary nation."
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Emma Reynolds - Daily Mail
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "We finished glowing, not least thanks to the beautifully attentive - and frankly beautiful - waiting staff. This is therapy for the most ingrained of sharing issues."
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See all the Pizarro reviews

The Delaunay - overall score 8/10 (down 1)
The Delaunay

Guy Dimond - Time Out
10

Choice quote: "Part of the joy of The Delaunay is that you're treated with equal decorum if you're a big spender, a celeb, or just popping in for Welsh rarebit or hot chocolate."
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Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
4

Choice quote: "...I’m fed-up of being made to feel like a second-class citizen in the establishments of these superlative social engineers. No amount of flawless patisserie, silver coffee pots and expensive design can compensate."
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See all the Delaunay reviews

Burger & Lobster - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Burger & Lobster

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
6

Choice quote: "It is not just the lobster being a game of two halves that is unusual and exciting, the meat is also sweet-tasting and tender, more so if you go for steamed - although you then miss the smokiness of the char."
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Anon - GQ
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "Thanks to its remarkably straightforward pricing, Burger & Lobster deserves every success in 2012."
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See all the Burger & Lobster reviews

Ducksoup - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Duck Soup

Giles Coren - Times
7

Choice quote: "Once upon a time one might have gone somewhere like this and said, “The food’s pretty decent but the room is a bit uncomfortable.” In 2012 I think people will mostly be saying, “The food’s pretty decent AND the room is a bit uncomfortable.” It’s bizarre, and I don’t absolutely get it."
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See all the Ducksoup reviews

Granger & Co - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Granger & Co

AA Gill - Sunday Times
6

Choice quote: "The truth, that the food is imprecise, rushed, muddy, awkward and apparently untasted, is, annoyingly, beside the point."
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John Lanchester - Guardian
7
Estimated score

Choice quote: "The breakfast, lunch and dinner menus are similar but not identical. I went at lunch, and beat the queues by arriving at noon on the dot. It was OK – not great, not terrible, not exciting, but competent."
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Lisa Markwell - Independent
7.5

Choice quote: "There are a few creases to iron out... but I predict that it will settle into being a favourite foodie destination for the locals and visitors alike. Bravo Bill."
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See all the Granger & Co reviews

Novikov - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Novikov

Charmaine Mok - Time Out
6

Choice quote: "...the service was unusually warm for this kind of restaurant. But just like other Mayfair establishments of this ilk, you pay heavily just for the privilege of being there."
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Richard & Peter - Harden's
8

Choice quote: "The real surprise, however, was the food – which was, with one exception, consistently impressive. The quality comes as more a shock, because a pan-Asian menu – by definition – lacks any sort of coherency."
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See all the Novikov reviews

Soif - overall score 7/10 (up 0.5)
Soif

John Lanchester - Guardian
7
Estimated score

Choice quote: "The meaty Soif is by far the best restaurant in the strip of eateries on this side of Battersea Rise. It comfortably surpasses the others; in fact, from their point of view, you might even say it was beaty."
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See all the Soif reviews

34 - overall score 6.5/10 (up 0.5)
34

Jay Rayner - Observer
7
Estimated score

Choice quote: "Everything, from the look of the place through the killer steaks to the desserts, is bang on. It is sexy and smart. Most of all it feels like it has been there for years rather than just a few weeks."
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See all the 34 reviews

Aurelia - overall score 6.5/10 (no change)
Aurelia

Jay Rayner - Observer
6
Estimated score

Choice quote: "...Aurelia (is) a place where you can eat very well indeed, but not yet a good restaurant. There is a difference."
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See all the Aurelia reviews

Bread Street Kitchen - overall score 6.5/10 (no change)
Nopi

Richard Vines - Bloomberg
6

Choice quote: "I’d say there’s too much ambition in the prices and not enough in the food if it weren’t for the crowds of contented- looking diners I’ve seen there."
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See all the Bread Street Kitchen reviews

Hereford Road - overall score 6.5/10 (no change)
Hereford Road

Amol Rajan - Independent
6.5

Choice quote: "Properly British, proudly simple, and professionally delivered –through Hereford Road, gastronomic Hendersonism is thriving in west London too."
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See all the Hereford Road reviews

Mishkin's - overall score 6.5/10 (up 0.5)
Mishkin's

Richard Vines - Bloomberg
7

Choice quote: "I’d like to see more choice of wines -- there’s little here I would opt to drink -- and in the democratic spirit of sharing, I wish the only Champagne weren’t Jacquesson at 60 pounds."
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AA Gill - Sunday Times
4

Choice quote: "It starts off not being very good food and then the kitchen adds its own not-very-goodness. The seasoning is all over the place, usually the wrong place, and everything is whispering when it should be yelling."
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Giles Coren - Times
7.5

Choice quote: "This place is a hoot. The portions are huge. The prices are low. Go. Nosh. Enjoy."
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Tracey MacLeod - Independent
7.5

Choice quote: "Turns out that this Jewish deli-meets-rackety bar is just the place London has been crying out for. Who knew?"
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Fay Maschler - View London
8

Choice quote: "All (our) questions doubtless dissolve in the evenings at Mishkin's when the blinds come down, the music swells, the gin fizzes and the notably amiable staff stay amiable."
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See all the Mishkin's reviews

Massimo - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Massimo

Matthew Norman - Telegraph
2

Choice quote: "...this mix of the flashy and the desultory had nothing to offer the set-menu diner other than outrageous drinks prices (£2.75, forsooth, for a splash of tonic), confused service and sullen mediocrity."
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See all the Massimo reviews


ALSO REVIEWED

The Hansom Cab

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro: "This is a playground for minted fiftysomethings who don’t want to be challenged by their dinner or be bothered by hoi polloi. Oops! My bad. If you’ve got the loot and that kind of thing rocks your small world, you’ll have a ball."
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The Bull Highgate

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro: "While we have some lovely little sliders (actually, mini-burgers; my word count doesn’t allow the full, pedantic differentiation), and some decent plaice doused in quantities of brown butter with little fried potatoes, the rest of what we eat from an American-accented menu falls flat."
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Busan

Charmaine Mok - Time Out: "We loved the description of the sundubu jijae (soft curdled tofu stew), the experience likened to 'eating a spicy cloud'. Indeed - the soft tofu curds were gloriously silky and light, suspended in a rich chilli- and seafood-spiked soup, mellowed by the addition of a sunny egg yolk."
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E Mono

Giles Coren - Times: "E. Mono. Remember the name. With its heritage-proclaiming beauty, its haiku-simple menu, its on-trend smallness, lack of a telephone (eat your heart out, Spuntino), and its up-and-coming inner-city location, it is without question the hippest place to be seen at the moment."
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Kipferl

Zoe Wililams - Telegraph: " It was so fresh and uncomplicated I wanted to break into a chorus of Edelweiss, but of course I had my mouth full."
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Oslo Court

Matthew Norman - Telegraph: " ...it is the same pæan to peach it ever was, the staff remain breathtakingly attentive to a largely venerable clientele, and the menu reads like a memento buried in a time capsule the year we rashly abandoned proper money for this newfangled decimal nonsense."
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