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Restaurant review charts - week ending 7 November
Our latest bi-weekly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. This week there are some excellent first reviews for Hawksmoor Seven Dials, Les Deux Salons gets more good reviews (although Dos Hermanos disagree), while Dock Kitchen gets a perfect 10 from AA Gill... Hawksmoor Seven Dials - overall score 9.5/10 (new entry)
Kang Leung - London Eater Choice quote: "The message I want to convey is to not have steak at Hawksmoor. Its good, but it’s not great, for the same money... Instead, I urge you to go for everything else on the menu." Guy Dimond - Time Out Choice quote: "Stonkingly huge bill apart, we couldn't find fault with the new Hawksmoor." Stephen Farmer - View London Choice quote: "Anyone who’s been to the Spitalfields venue will know what to expect from the kitchen, but the setting, atmosphere and location make this one even better." Dock Kitchen - overall score 8/10 (no change)
AA Gill - Sunday Times Choice quote: "The atmosphere provoked by wonderful cooking was light and comfortable and we left in a Pickwickian mood, replete and garrulous, at one with a happy world. Only a really good dinner can do that for you." Morito - overall score 8/10 (no change)
Andy Lynes - Metro Choice quote: "There are two bite-sized jamon and chicken croquetas, deep fried to crisp perfection; a scattering of crunchy cubes of chicharrónes Cadiz (slow-roasted pork belly with cumin and lemon) and four halves of patatas mojo (salt-crusted potatoes with green chilli and coriander sauce). There’s not a duff dish." Tinello - overall score 7.5/10 (no change )
John Walsh - Independent Choice quote: "We left Tinello, stumbling out into the mid-afternoon traffic of Pimlico, after two hours, feeling we could have stayed there all day." Les Deux Salons - overall score 7.5/10 (down 1)
Tracey MacLeod - Independent Choice quote: "It's not often I look at the menu in a new restaurant and start drooling. But suddenly, out of a clear blue sky, that's what I found myself doing at Les Deux Salons." Fay Maschler - Evening Standard Choice quote: "Demetre’s take on French cooking — here interpreted by head chef Craig Johnson — is happily deeper and more interesting in terms of the resulting dishes than those typically encountered nowadays in Paris brasseries." Hermano Primero - Dos Hermanos Choice quote: "I wish it wasn’t so but at the end of the meal I was thinking that I've still never had a truly satisfying meal in an Anthony Demetre restaurant." Trullo - overall score 7.5/10 (down 0.5)
Amol Rajan - Independent Choice quote: "...I have to report that, shin ragu and hazelnut ice-cream aside, it felt as if each dish made the same mistake, promising much but delivering little." Ba Shan - overall score 7/10 (up 0.5)
Jay Rayner - Observer Choice quote: "The menu includes Chairman Mao's red-braised pork... Deep red cubes of dense meat fell apart in the mouth. The fat had been braised into jelly and it came with a sauce which, if I eat enough of it, will be literally to die for." River Restaurant at the Savoy - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Richard & Peter - Harden's Choice quote: "But the food, even in the early days, impressed. A goat’s cheese amuse inspired mixed reactions among our party, but the prettily-presented starters and main courses almost invariably hit their mark, and the breads were very good too." Cigalon - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Fay Maschler - Evening Standard Choice quote: "Both meals were truly delicious. I emailed a friend afterwards saying that I had sort of forgotten that delicious was really the point of a satisfying restaurant meal." Douglas Blyde - Foodepedia Choice quote: "Seemingly served on a plate styled on a lid, veal on the bone was more successful: perfectly pink in the most intimate places with a gutsy Provençal topping of olives, chives, garlic, tomatoes and peppers. However its pleasure was momentarily blipped by a chickpea chip – a first and last for me." 8 Station Terrace - overall score 7/10 (up 0.5)
Jackie Annesley - Evening Standard Choice quote: "“You don’t feel you’re in London,” mused a friend when we went back for an evening meal. The atmosphere is resolutely fun as affable manager Carl Brodie flits around the tables, dispensing drinks and de Andrade’s dishes from the open kitchen at the back." Bar Battu - overall score 7/10 (up 0.5)
Anon - City AM Choice quote: "Bar Battu delivered a perfect post-work meal: simple, well-executed fare with flair, exciting, affordable wine and a winning piece of pie." Thali - overall score 7/10 (down 1)
Andy Lynes - Metro Choice quote: "Thali is probably not worth crossing town for but if it’s your local, start quietly rejoicing." York & Albany - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Jay Rayner - Observer Choice quote: "Hartnett's food here is very much an extension of her personality. Sure she can do big and solid, but she also has technique by the gallon, which allows her to do serious stuff to ingredients while still retaining their essence." Casa Malveo - overall score 6.5/10 (new entry)
Chris Moss - Time Out Choice quote: "...a welcome shift towards good old Argentine generosity would be welcome. For flavour though, the food can't be faulted." Hermano Primero - Dos Hermanos Choice quote: "...you have a tidy-looking restaurant serving unoriginal and unexciting food that is probably just good enough to keep the nobs from Connaught Village happy." Stephen Farmer - View London Choice quote: "It’s all very impressively priced, not least for the area, but this perhaps explains why some of the dishes don’t quite live up to expectations." Geales Chelsea Green - overall score 6/10 (up 0.5)
Katy Guest - Independent Choice quote: "And the fish and chips? Perfectly crisp; perfectly fluffy. I can't fault it (damn it)." Sake No Hana - overall score 6/10 (down 0.5)
AA Gill - Sunday Times Choice quote: "In fact, a miserable and infuriating evening. The atmosphere in here could barely make it to the window before flinging itself out. The food is lazy, inconsistent, made without poise or skill." The Portman - overall score 6/10 (down 2)
Andy Lynes - Metro Choice quote: "The menu reads well and there’s plenty of seasonal and delicious-sounding dishes. However, the reality is less pleasing. The shortcrust pastry of a woefully under-seasoned crab and saffron tart, which tastes mostly of egg and cream, is so short it turns to dust in my mouth." The Red Fort - overall score 6/10 (down 1)
Zoe Williams - Telegraph Choice quote: "The flavouring was all traditional stuff – coriander, cumin, chilli – but the spices and the meat seemed to deepen and unfurl as you chewed. Delicious." To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews. |
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