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Restaurant review charts - week ending 6 March
Our latest bi-weekly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. This week Dinner is still topping the list and there's a good batch of new reviews for the Fox and Grapes from the Bosi brothers... Dinner by Heston Blumenthal - overall score 9.5/10 (no change)
Jay Rayner - Observer Choice quote: "None of these dishes is the exercise in miniaturism that Blumenthal practises at the Fat Duck in Bray. They are bigger, more boisterous; a hug rather than a tickle. But the same absurd obsessive-compulsive attention to detail has gone into all of them, and it shows." A Little of What You Fancy - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Marina O'Loughlin - Metro Choice quote: "Main courses are generous and well-cooked, no foams, no folderols, just a vast slab of that aromatic pork belly on mustard mash with a smart, spiced-citrus kumquat relish." Euan Ferguson - Time Out Choice quote: "(Dishes) were assembled with care and in generous proportions; our plates had to go back unfinished. Perhaps A Lot of What You Fancy might be a more appropriate name." Amaranto - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Tracey MacLeod - Independent Choice quote: "...despite the generally high standard, there were glitches which were, as the football commentators say, unacceptable at this level." Kelly Hussey - View London Choice quote: "The Italian menu boasts excellent ingredients expertly combined to produce beautifully presented dishes." Spice Market London - overall score 8/10 (no change)
Richard & Peter - Harden's Choice quote: "There is no doubt that the set lunch is extraordinary value – as good as you’ll find in the West End." NOPI - overall score 7.5/10 (new entry)
Lisa Markwell - Independent Choice quote: "The buzzing atmosphere, dazzling food and attentive staff make Nopi a very attractive proposition... For food at this level of cooking, the price is not unreasonable, but it does elevate it to an occasional, special occasional, treat." Guy Dimond - Time Out Choice quote: "It was the simplest dishes that worked best. Chunks of kohlrabi were cut like an apple and served raw, with a simple dip of mint-flavoured soured cream." David Sexton - Evening Standard Choice quote: "Nopi offers full service at table of small dishes, divided unpretentiously into meat, fish, veg and sweets, advising on the menu... And they turned out to be very hit-and-miss, surprisingly." Stephen Farmer - View London Choice quote: "This is another pleasing antidote to ostentatious cooking from someone who really knows his stuff." The Opera Tavern - overall score 7.5/10 (down 0.5)
David Sexton - Evening Standard Choice quote: "The likelihood is that you will end up with a bill much higher than you had anticipated... for a pleasant enough but not memorable meal." The Fox and Grapes - overall score 7.5/10 (new entry)
Guy Dimond - Time Out Choice quote: "Highlights included a square chunk of roast pork belly. The skin looked dense but was as crisp as fat Pringles, while the meat below was full-flavoured and not too fatty; masterfully cooked." Richard & Peter - Harden's Choice quote: "Main courses... showed an épater-la-bourgeoisie determination to lace almost all dishes with the sort of calorific content we’d guess Wimbledon’s ladies-who-lunch would normally go some way to avoid." Cat McGovern - View London Choice quote: "It is undeniable that the food at the Fox and Grapes is exceptional." Nick Harman - Foodepedia Choice quote: "The menu reads simply but is full of things you want to eat such as the Herefordshire snail lasagne. When it arrives I can tell from the aroma it’s going to be good and by golly it is." Les Deux Salons - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Matthew Norman - Telegraph Choice quote: "Smartly aproned waiters charged around with identifiably Parisian concentration written over their features and the service was superb by any standards, let alone for a place with 150 covers." Roux at the Landau - overall score 7/10 (down 1)
Hugo Rifkind - Times Choice quote: "Good place, then, but not one for a quick bite. I liked it in there, which is just as well, considering that there were times – long, expansive, soaring times – when I worried I would never be allowed to leave." North Road - overall score 7/10 (no change)
John Lanchester - Guardian Choice quote: "Given (an) initial wariness, North Road was a pleasant surprise, with some real high points. One of the best ideas – caramelised pork jelly – while not original, was still brilliant, setting off a leg of pork cooked in hay and three "textures" of celeriac, raw, puréed and fried." Koffmann's - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
Marina O'Loughlin - Metro Choice quote: "There’s a table laden with greenery and a rustic watering can in the middle of the room but it doesn’t disguise a sterile, windowless basement room, snooty service or unconvincing cooking." Restaurant at the Royal Academy - overall score 5.5/10 (up 0.5)
John Walsh - Independent Choice quote: "The RA restaurant looks lovely, the wine list is appealing and well-priced, and our Lithuanian waitress Karolina was completely charming. The cooking, though, has a pinched, defeatist, uncertain quality about it." To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews. |
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