Sunday, 03 April 2011

Our latest bi-weekly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. This week, Times critics AA Gill and Giles Coren review the exact same meal, more raves for Spuntino and Opera Tavern and Matthew Norman really doesn't like Spice Market...

Spuntino - overall score 8/10 (down 1)
Spuntino

Richard Vines - Bloomberg
8

Choice quote: "The attention to detail at Spuntino is just extraordinary, right down to the ice cubes, which -- instead of being perfectly formed -- come in misshapen slices, just like at an American diner."
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Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
6

Choice quote: "The staff behind the bar with their tattoos and T-shirts look like roadies but interact deftly and cheerfully. Fun is on the menu at Spuntino and that is worth celebrating."
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See all the Spuntino reviews

Keu - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Keu

Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits
9

Choice quote: "This is by some distance the best sandwich I've enjoyed in a long while, nearly a foot long, stuffed with premium expertly cooked ingredients and encased in artisan bread..."
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Laura Richards - View London
8

Choice quote: "The banh mi makes for a perfect snack and a great change from your average sandwich."
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See all the Keu reviews

Tapas Revolution - overall score 8/10 (no change)
Tapas Revolution

John Lanchester - Guardian
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "I can't recommend Tapas Revolution highly enough. It's open all day, and is ideal for real tapas-type eating – ie, a brief stop-and-snack."
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See all the Tapas revolution reviews

The Opera Tavern - overall score 8/10 (up 0.5)
The Opera Tavern

Zoe Williams - Telegraph
9

Choice quote: "There was so much going on in every mouthful, and all the flavours were so individual, so characterful, it was like a hip-hop dance-off. Made of food."
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See all the Opera Tavern reviews

NOPI - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Nopi

Jay Rayner - Observer
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "...what he already does at the delis is so perfectly poised, in such damn good taste, that it's tricky to see how it could be elaborated on. If you already love Yotam Ottolenghi's cooking you will not find a better version at Nopi."
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See all the NOPI reviews

Brawn - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Geales

AA Gill - Sunday Times
6

Choice quote: "The food was certainly worth a trip, and the kitchen did well to keep up, but it’s best when compiling tapas from cleverly sourced ingredients, less good when it actually has to cook from scratch."
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See all the Brawn reviews

Amaranto - overall score 7.5/10 (down 0.5)
Amaranto

Zoe Strimpel - City AM
7

Choice quote: "Most, but not absolutely all, of what we ate was the very best, with boisterously fresh ingredients, flavoured with rich, strident sauce and decorated pleasingly."
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See all the Amaranto reviews

A Little of What You Fancy - overall score 7/10 (down 1)
A Little of What You Fancy

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
4

Choice quote: "I rather loved it and said to myself that thing you should never need to say, "we probably could have chosen better"."
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See all the A Little of What You Fancy reviews

North Road - overall score 7/10 (no change)
North Road

AA Gill - Sunday Times
8

Choice quote: "Everything tastes of outdoors, like the wind off a moor or autumn birches freshly turned out. Moss and peat, rain and fungal stumps. It’s clever and it’s poignant, quietly sad. It’s food that is very Scandinavian."
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Giles Coren - Times
7

Choice quote: "In the end I was left with mouth memories reminiscent of Noma: raw fish, smoked things, dark flesh, salt, bitter herbs, almost no carbohydrates, very interesting, still hungry."
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See all the North Road reviews

The Fox and Grapes - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
The Fox & Grapes

Tracey Macleod - Independent
6

Choice quote: "Despite the decent quality of most of what we ate... we struggled to warm to the Fox and Grapes. A long wait for our main courses, and the "yeah, it's coming"-style response of our waitress, highlighted the problem with gastropubs in general... the food may be of restaurant quality, but the service is distinctly pubbish."
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See all the Fox and Grapes reviews

Chabrot Bistrot d'Amis - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Chabrot Bistrot d'Amis

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
8

Choice quote: "Everything here is thoughtful: from the bread and butter to a pudding of almost-black squelchy chocolate cake crusted with sesame seeds and served with ‘milk jam’ – the gorgeous condensed milk equivalent that is confiture de lait."
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See all the Chabrot Bistrot d'Amis reviews

Cassis Bistro - overall score 7 /10 (up 0.5)
Cassis

Giles Coren - Times
7

Choice quote: "Great menu, great cooking, decent room, expensive but not silly expensive."
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See all the Cassis Bistro reviews

Spice Market London - overall score 6/10 (down 2)
Spice Market London

Matthew Norman - Telegraph
2

Choice quote: "The unofficial (concept) is to take comparatively cheap ingredients, pepper the menu with the word “emulsion” in a stab at justifying outlandish prices, and get the punters out as quickly as possible."
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See all the Spice Market London reviews

Inamo St James - overall score 6/10 (down 2)
Inamo St James

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
8

Choice quote: "The novelty has worn off; Inamo is a place that I can’t imagine going to more than once – especially at these prices."
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See all the Inamo St James reviews

Bennett - overall score 6/10 (new entry)
Bennett

Guy Dimond - Time Out
6

Choice quote: "...its main appeal will be as a neighbourhood brasserie for a drink, breakfast or lunch bite, rather than as a destination restaurant"
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See all the Bennett reviews

Brunswick House Cafe - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Brunswick House Cafe

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
8

Choice quote: "The full menus are stuffed with irresistible ideas: Blythburgh breakfast slider, biscuit and provolone; rare roast topside, green sauce and dripping toast; Old Spot shoulder, nduja and fennel."
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See all the Brunswick House Cafe reviews

Eighty Six - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Eighty Six

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

Choice quote: "His early days menu excesses – all buttock-clenching headings such as ‘skinny minis’ and ‘water, ebb and flow’– have been curtailed (although ‘beast of the week’ remains) in favour of a short, smart doc that ticks so many trend boxes it could have been written by Tyler Brûlé."
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See all the Eighty Six reviews

5 Pollen Street - overall score 5.5/10 (no change)
5 Pollen Street

Zoe Strimpel - City AM
6

Choice quote: "More striking is how lovely to look at it is: small and jewel-like, with wallpaper that’s half botanical and half something that could be of a more sexual nature... But once the meal began in earnest, things lost their spot-on-ness."
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See all the 5 Pollen Street reviews

To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews.

 
 

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