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Restaurant review charts - week ending 29 May
Our latest bi-weekly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. This week, it's a great start for Cay Tre Soho, The Gilbert Scott garners some rave reviews while old faves the Blueprint Cafe and Rules get some love from Marina O'Loughlin in Metro. Capote Y Toros - overall score 8.5/10 (down 0.5)
Marina O'Loughlin - Metro Choice quote: "Even if you have never experienced the nirvana of the finest acorn-fed ham, the way the nutty sweetness floods your mouth and the ambrosial fat coats your tongue, it’s worth coming here for the booze alone." Rules - overall score 8/10 (no change)
Marina O'Loughlin - Metro Choice quote: "...the food is every bit as impressive as the history-steeped rooms, with produce and game coming from the restaurant’s own estates. How many other restaurants can boast that?" Pollen Street Social - overall score 7.5/10 (down 0.5)
Zoe Williams - Telegraph Choice quote: "The slightly virginal theme of the accompaniments, which I suppose was intended as a counterpoint to this oily, macho fish, served rather to underline how unexciting it was." Giles Coren - Times Choice quote: "Highlights early on were the smoked foie gras on a plate microdotted with little black and gold blobs of black sesame and smoked golden raisin, and a dish of cauliflower and squid on a clear roasted squid juice of El Bulli-ish inventiveness." Cay Tre Soho - overall score 7.5/10 (new entry)
Kelly Hussey - View London Choice quote: "If you’re a fan of the original but don’t fancy trekking out to East London, Cay Tre Soho does a great job of bridging the gap into Central London." Guy Dimond - Time Out Choice quote: "Many dishes were a surprise, such as a salad of raw green mango with rarely seen chewy sundried squid, roasted peanut and Vietnamese herbs; the mix of texture and flavour rang true to its origins as street food." Fay Maschler - Evening Standard Choice quote: "Slow-cooked Mekong catfish caramelised in fish sauce served in a pretty pottery bowl is exquisite and I ordered it both times." Blueprint Cafe - overall score 7.5/10 (up 0.5)
Marina O'Loughlin - Metro Choice quote: "It all works splendidly. The powerful flavours in my salad of feta, broad beans, mint, slow-cooked tomato and black olive crumbs are like a series of enjoyable miniature mouth explosions." St John Hotel - overall score 7.5/10 (up 0.5)
Jay Rayner - Observer Choice quote: "On the side (of the fish soup) was a piece of sourdough toast spread with ripe brown crab meat. It was all the kind of thing upon which the St John reputation is built: a simple idea done very well indeed." The Gilbert Scott - overall score 7.5/10 (up 1)
Tracey Macleod - Independent Choice quote: "Happily, the intellectual promise of the menu is followed through on the plate. The dishes we tried may not have looked particularly pretty, but they were prepared with the finesse you'd expect from a team with its roots in fine dining." John Lanchester - Guardian Choice quote: "The menu is a thing of beauty: it is full-on retro English. It draws heavily on the food writers of previous centuries – John Nott, Isabella Beeton – and makes a statement about the strength of this grievously underexploited culinary heritage." Roussillon - overall score 6.5/10 (no change)
John Walsh - Independent Choice quote: "(The head chef's) cooking is astonishingly complex (hearing him describe his methods is like watching Einstein inscribe fractions on a blackboard) but always in the service of vividly connective flavours." To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews. |
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