Sunday, 29 August 2010

This week we have a double round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. This week Goodman City gets even better reviews, Tinello cements its standing, Koffmann's divides the critics and AA Gill rails against Viajante - plus loads more...

Goodman, City - overall score 9/10 (up 0.5)
Goodman, City

Hermano Primero - Dos Hermanos
9
Estimated score

What did he think? Improving on its already very good Mayfair sibling.
Choice quote: " If Goodman can keep the standard up – and there's no reason to think they can't – then this will be my go-to place when I want that classic last meal."
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Richard Vines - Bloomberg
10

What did he think? Great mains and sides, and a buzzing atmosphere gets Richard's top score.
Choice quote: "Great steaks, cooked well and served with a smile is a more difficult formula than it sounds. Goodman makes it look easy."
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See all the Goodman, City reviews

Tinello - overall score 7.5/10 (up 0.5)
Tinello

Guy Dimond - Time Out
8

What did he think? It's a "playful, fun and inventive" restaurant with good food, service and a great buzz.
Choice quote: "There are so many alluring antipasti and 'small eats' it's a wonder anyone ever makes it to the secondi piatti."
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See all the Tinello reviews

Koffmann's - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Koffmann's

Allan Jenkins - Observer
9
Estimated score

What did he think? A perfect lunch by one of the greatest chefs in the country.
Choice quote: "My daube de joue de boeuf arrives. Another Koffmann classic, the meltingly soft, silken beef cheek falls apart with a fork (they also supply a spoon to sup the rich, deep gravy)."
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Matthew Fort - Guardian
8

What did he think? Classic brasserie food as cooked by a master.
Choice quote: "The secret of Koffmann's cooking is flavour, flavour and yet more flavour. Great breakers of flavour roll like thunder round your mouth."
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Matthew Norman - Telegraph
5

What did he think? A disappointment, given the pedigree of the chef.
Choice quote: "My boudin noir with sautéed apples was better, the black pudding unusually delicate and the apple pleasingly caramelised, though nothing to suggest the work of a champion on the gastronomic podium spraying champagne as he reworks the bistro classics."
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See all the Koffmann's reviews


The Paramount - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
The Paramount

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

What did she think? Great view - although other cities top it - and OK food, but without much of an identity.
Choice quote: "It's pretty good, though, giving the lie to the old saw that a restaurant with a view automatically means a duff dinner."
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See all the Paramount reviews

Viajante - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
Viajante

AA Gill - Sunday Times
2

What did he think? The food was too showy and too little, took too long and he hated the area of town.
Choice quote: "Food this slight and mimsy has to be intense, surprising and utterly clear and self-confident. What we got was muddy, haphazard, careless, clumsy and boastful."
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See all the Viajante reviews

Polpetto - overall score 6.5/10 (new entry)
Polpetto

Richard Vines - Bloomberg
8

What did he think? The feel of a buzzy neighbourhood restaurant matched with excellent food and a good, if short, wine list.
Choice quote: "The hits include duck-and-porcini meatball; cured pork shoulder and pickled-pepper pizzetta (my favorite); Cotechino and pickled radicchio bruschetta; pea, mint, fennel and ricotta salad; panna cotta, blackberries, biscotti; and lemon and strawberry sgroppino, which is like a smoothie with Prosecco."
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Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
6

What did she think? Another good and affordable addition to "quirky" Soho.
Choice quote: "Polpo and Polpetto — and presumably in the autumn Spuntino — represent a new way of eating exemplified by the recent opening of a bunch of small, quirky, independent businesses in Soho."
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Guy Dimond - Time Out
6

What did he think? Incredibly busy but the food, while good, needs to try harder.
Choice quote: "...the food should also live up to the promise, and our meal was patchier than we'd have hoped for."
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See all the Polpetto reviews

Wallace and Co - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Wallace and Co

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

What did she think? An average restaurant saved by its wine list.
Choice quote: "If I had to sum the place up in Hollywood pitch brevity, I’d say it’s pleasantly ordinary."
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See all the Wallace and Co reviews

Sedap - overall score 6/10 (down 0.5)
Sedap

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
6

What did she think? Good example of Malaysian cuisine, at decent prices.
Choice quote: "Culinary influences have been woven skillfully and seductively; a particularly well-made Penang char kway teow (flat rice noodle assembly), as you find at Sedap — the name means “delicious” — is one of those dishes I might give as an answer to “What would you like for your last meal on earth?” "
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See all the Sedap reviews

Redhook - overall score 6/10 (up 0.5)
Redhook

Giles Coren - Times
7.5

What did he think? Good steak, cocktails and staff, shellfish needs improvement.
Choice quote: "(The owner) Downey generally gets these things right, and this is 80 per cent of the way to excellent."
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Zoe Strimpel - City AM
6
Estimated score

What did she think? Good cocktails and OK steak, but you could have better elsewhere.
Choice quote: "On balance, Redhook is a good thing – the staff are lovely and the cocktails are great. Throw in some kick-arse chips and perhaps the less expensive ribeye (£13) and I see no reason why you shouldn’t have a good time."
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See all the Redhook reviews


Café Luc - overall score 6/10 (up 0.5)
Cafe Luc
Giles Coren - Times
7.5

What did he think? Decent food, good service, best for an older crowd.
Choice quote: "The service was very good, the wine list not bad (with plenty by the glass), the range of starters, salads, pastas and mains a pretty gentle canter through the post-Wolseley all-day eating standards we’ve come to know and, well, expect..."
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See all the Café Luc reviews

Aqua Kyoto - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Koffmann's

Guy Dimond - Time Out
6

What did he think? Good Japanese food let down by bad service.
Choice quote: "Service on this visit was a shambles though. Our oriental waitress knew barely a word of menu Japanese, and soy sauce - the essential and obvious condiment - was not brought (we had to ask for it)."
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See all the Aqua Kyoto reviews


Roux at Parliament Square - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Roux at Parliament Square

Zoe Williams - Telegraph
6

What did she think? "Unbreachable" formal atmosphere with food that is good, but not very exciting.
Choice quote: "Yup, that's lamb, that's tongue, that's artichoke, that is what all those things taste of, but where's the drama?"
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See all the Roux at Parliament Square reviews

To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews.

 
 

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