Restaurant review charts - week ending 25th July

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Created on Sunday, 25 July 2010 00:00
Written by Gavin Hanly

Every week we round up all the new London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics and add them to our reviews section. This week Fay Maschler's first in the door at Koffmann's, Time Out digs Dishoom and more praise for Trullo and the Old Brewery.

The Old Brewery - overall score 8/10 (no change)
The Old Brewery

Fiona Hughes - Evening Standard
8

What did she think? A buzzing atmosphere with perfectly cooked fish.
Choice quote: "Now... there is, oh joy, a new restaurant and it’s really good. So good that it’s worth the trip to SE10 if you’re not one of us."
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See all the Old Brewery reviews

Trullo - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Trullo

Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits
8

What did he think? Despite the main course arriving too early, the rest of the manu proved it to be an excellent local restaurant.
Choice quote: "So I will forgive them the reheated lamb and the soggy crackling and just remember the (mmm) ox heart and the (gasp) cuttlefish and the (swoon) ravioli, and declare that Trullo is the kind of restaurant that every neighbourhood deserves."
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Jay Rayner - Observer
8

Estimated score

What did he think? Expertly made and cooked pasta, friendly waiting staff and good prices.
Choice quote: "Get someone with good taste who knows how to cook. Find cheery, efficient waiters. Get the latter to bring what the former has made to the tables, and charge a reasonable sum for it. It is the dream neighbourhood restaurant, though sadly not in mine."
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See all the Trullo reviews

The Paramount - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
The Paramount

Richard and Peter - Harden's
7
Estimated score

What did they think? Acceptable food at an acceptable price - matched with an amazing view.
Choice quote: "The service is pleasant, and efficient enough, but devoid of pretensions, and the food is likewise."
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See all the Paramount reviews

Dishoom - overall score 7.5/10 (up 0.5)
Dishoom

Guy Dimond - Time Out
8

What did he think? A good interpretation of a Bombay cafe (the reviewer has had personal experience of them) with pau bhaji, keem pau and chilli cheese toast worth having.
Choice quote: "Sipping on my Thums Up cola, the taste transported me back 25 years. Except this is a far superior dining experience: there are no white-jacketed waiters flicking dirty rags, and I'm sure no Irani café ever had as much Design Intent going on as this one clearly has."
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See all the Dishoom reviews

The Capital - overall score 6.5/10 (up 0.5)
Capital

Timothy Barber - City AM
4

What did he think? New cook Jerome Ponchelle has kept the kitchen's standards high.
Choice quote: "You could and should go for Ponchelle’s cooking, which turns out to be right on the money."
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See all the Redhook reviews

Koffmann's - overall score 6/10 (new entry)
Koffmann's

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
6

What did she think? Some great dishes on offer, but it still feels like a work in progress that tries too hard to be "rustic".
Choice quote: "It is deceptively hard to do simple or rustic where once you have laboured intensively and meticulously. A cone of newspaper (Le Monde) wrapped around fries set on the table with the main courses doesn’t achieve it — crunchy, greasy and saltily delicious though they are."
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See all the Koffmann's reviews

Cantina Laredo - overall score 5.5/10 (no change)
Cantina Laredo

Tracey MacLeod - Independent
4

What did she think? The "Gourmet" restaurant delivered some of the worst Mexican food she's ever had.
Choice quote: "It just goes to show that you should never trust a restaurant that calls itself "gourmet", just as you should never believe someone who calls himself "eccentric"."
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See all the Cantina Laredo reviews


To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews.

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