Hot Dinners

Restaurant review charts - week ending 21 November

Our latest bi-weekly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. Hawksmoor Seven Dials continues its run of excellent reviews while Les Deux Salons and Tinello continue to get raves. Wright Bros Soho Starts well but, alas, Jamie Oliver's Barbecoa is not well recieved...

Hawksmoor Seven Dials - overall score 9/10 (down 0.5)
Hawksmoor Seven Dials

Marina O'Loughlin - London Eater
8

Choice quote: "The dry-aged Longhorn steaks, via super-butcher Ginger Pig’s Yorkshire farm, are the bomb. Huge, thick, breathing smoky fumes from their punishment on the charcoal grill, they manage the remarkable feat of being perfectly black outside and evenly pink within."
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Anon - City AM
8

Choice quote: "The steak was a glorious hunk of drippingly pink, charcoaly flesh – with none of that obnoxious chewiness that comes from poorly integrated fat and bad cuts. I’m not sure I’ve tasted anything better – even in the US."
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See all the Hawksmoor Seven Dials reviews

Wright Brothers Soho - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Wright Bros Soho

Hermano Primero - Dos Hermanos
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "The other stuff going out looked pretty good too but for me it’s always going to be about the Oysters."
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Homa - overall score 8/10 (no change)
Homa

Giles Coren - Times
7

Choice quote: "Everything was hot, fresh, delicious and not overpriced."
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Les Deux Salons - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Les Deux Salons

Tracey MacLeod - Independent
8

Choice quote: "The slow-cooked ox cheek with parsnip purée main is perfect – glossy and dark meat, smooth-as-silk purée and a side order of gratin dauphinoise that requires protection from the other diners with a sharp knife."
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See all the Les Deux Salons reviews

Tinello - overall score 7.5/10 (no change )
Tinello

Giles Coren - Times
7.5
Estimated score

Choice quote: "Tinello will be one of the big successes of this year. It takes the new Italian ball from Bocca and Polpo and the rest, and runs with it in a new direction."
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Entrée - overall score 7.5/10 (down 0.5)
Entree

Jay Rayner - Observer
7
Estimated score

Choice quote: "I suppose I should apologise for ordering the pork belly. But this one was so good, the crosshatched, crisp, honeyed crackling giving way to completely rendered meat, that I'm not sure who I'd be apologising to, other than the pigs."
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Cigalon - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Cigalon

John Walsh - Independent
8.5

Choice quote: "My date Angie's carpaccio of veal looked like salmon and was of such unearthly tenderness, you didn't need a knife to cut it. The accompanying rocket was crispy, the capers were tart and the three swung along together as though performing "All the Single Ladies" with the hand actions."
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Richard & Peter - Harden's
6
Estimated score

Choice quote: "The food is not bad, but – like the décor – we couldn’t help wondering if it is 'right’. The bread, a selection, was OK, if not at all remarkable, but the overwhelming impression of a bowl of Provençal vegetable soup was that it was rather a lady’s portion."
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Nizuni - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Nizuni

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
6

Choice quote: "One [appetiser] not to miss is kaisonosumisoae, a salad of different varieties of seaweed, some with the slithery texture you might anticipate, another done to a crisp. The white miso-based dressing adds to the sensation of vitamins dancing on your palate."
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Chamaine Mok - Time Out
8

Choice quote: "The sushi is well made, and a benchmark dish of uni (sea urchin) spoke reassuringly of decent sourcing - the creamy roe lacked the musky, fishy odour of less-than-fresh versions, and tasted clean and sweet."
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The Bingham - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Bingham

Amol Rajan - Independent
7.5

Choice quote: "My braised halibut is muscular and pungent, and though it sits on an irrelevant wedge of baby gem, the accompanying hand-rolled macaroni with mushroom vinaigrette – Cooper clearly loves his fungi – is superb."
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Brasserie Joel - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Brasserie Joel

Andy Lynes - Metro
8

Choice quote: "The menu mentioned the crab having come from Devon, but that just underlined how neutral the dish was, evoking neither English seaside nor French finesse. It conjured up no atmosphere beyond professionalism."
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The English Pig - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
English Pig

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6
Estimated score

Choice quote: "Mountain seems an accomplished guy, committed to turning happy pigs from Goodwood into good food."
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Richard & Peter - Harden's
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "It may be a positive sign of the times, though, that even in such an unlikely location you can find really good food nowadays. Everything from the scallops to the pork belly was robust and tasty: just the sort of fare your typical City punter probably wants."
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The Portman - overall score 6/10 (no change)
The Portman

Guy Dimond - Time Out
6

Choice quote: "Yet The Portman didn't quite come together. The service on our visit was a muddle, with orders either slow or forgotten. The dishes were adequate, rather than good."
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Café Luc - overall score 5.5/10 (down 0.5)
Cafe Luc

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
8

Choice quote: "Yes, folks, this is little better than Café Rouge food but at River Café prices."
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Barbecoa - overall score 5.5/10 (new entry)
Barbecoa

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
4

Choice quote: "The welcome managed to be both confused and glacial. Service flailed. Food, when it arrived, was tepid. Quantities veered between miserly for the high-end pricing and too much."
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Guy Dimond - Time Out
6

Choice quote: "Booking system apart, Barbecoa does many things right. It's a big, smart, City barbecue joint that proudly serves top-quality British meats from the attached butchery downstairs."
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Hermano Primero - Dos Hermanos
4
Estimated score

Choice quote: "Anyone expecting anything to evoke BBQ from the US is going to be seriously disappointed."
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Stephen Farmer - View London
8

Choice quote: "The stunning views of one of the capital’s finest landmarks will probably get the majority of the plaudits but the quality of the food is every bit as impressive."
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See all the Barbecoa reviews

Samarqand - overall score 5.5/10 (new entry)
Samarqand

AA Gill - Sunday Times
6

Choice quote: "This isn’t svelte or sophisticated food. It’s outdoor, booted and quilted food, to be consumed on felt blankets in a biting wind, drinking small glasses of salty black tea. And that, I suspect, is why the Russians like it."
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