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Restaurant review charts - week ending 20 February
Our latest bi-weekly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. This week there are another load of Dinner by Heston reviews - plus a promising start for Spice Market London and Chabrot Bistro D'Amis - but the Restaurant at the Royal Academy isn't getting much love... Dinner by Heston Blumenthal - overall score 9.5/10 (up 0.5)
Lisa Markwell - Independent Choice quote: "My husband, a man not given to needless praise and positively averse to hype, says it is the best meal he's ever eaten in a restaurant." Richard Vines - Bloomberg Choice quote: "Blumenthal and Palmer-Watts aren’t wacky scientists experimenting for the sake of novelty or to shock. They’re creative chefs who are expanding the boundaries of British cuisine, in this case by digging deep into the past." AA Gill - Sunday Times Choice quote: "This is an exemplary menu of perfect balance and brilliance. The preparation and the concept manage to be a very British contrariness, both comforting and surprising, inventive but familiar." Tracey MacLeod - Independent Choice quote: "When the hyperbole and hysteria around Dinner subside, it will be clear that while it may not be "the best restaurant in the world", as one over-excited critic has anointed it, it is certainly a world-class restaurant, which takes British food to another level." Guy Dimond - Time Out Choice quote: "Some dishes exceed expectations, others can raise false hopes. Yet all the dishes are beautifully plated, in haute cuisine style." Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits Choice quote: "The sheer effort, attention to detail and astonishing skill that went into every single element of the dishes we ate on Saturday... made the whole experience a complete joy from start to finish." Matthew Norman - Telegraph Choice quote: "The best thing of all about Dinner is a quality never before associated with a Michelin deity. It is colossal fun." Spice Market London - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Euan Ferguson - Time Out Choice quote: "...it's clear that as much thought has gone into the cooking as has the decor and service: everything we tried was very good, if far removed from the original dishes." Chabrot Bistrot d'Amis - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Jay Rayner - Observer Choice quote: "Chabrot is small and demure, and perfectly slathered in Parisian bistro tropes and clichés. But it is done with such precision and intent and fondness that you can not begrudge it." Euan Ferguson - Time Out Choice quote: "The menu isn't groundbreaking, covering bistro classics with a lean towards south-west France, but the attention to detail and small touches elevate it." Fay Maschler - Evening Standard Choice quote: "The first dinner delivered a perfectly grilled paillarde de veau scattered with herbs, a gratifying chou farci Chabrot stuffed with veal, chestnuts, foie gras and ceps - time-consuming to prepare and seldom offered - but also the determination to return having ordered ahead one of the main courses to share." Richard & Peter - Harden's Choice quote: "As a lunch venue... the attractively priced ‘deals’ look set to make this an amazingly useful addition to this ever-ritzier part of town." Hakkasan Mayfair - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Zoe Williams - Telegraph Choice quote: "I don't mean 'I remember thinking it was good'; I mean it was so good I can almost recreate the taste from memory. How often in life does that happen? Not often enough!" 5 Pollen Street - overall score 6/10 (new entry)
Fay Maschler - Evening Standard Choice quote: "...bold Mayfair prices and the Michelin history created expectations that were not quite met at the two meals I tried - but it was very early days." Brunswick House Cafe - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Marina O'Loughlin - Metro Choice quote: "It’s not swanky or sophisticated but it doesn’t set out to be. And it’s licensed.... I’ve been using Brunswick House Café for its excellently priced evening cocktails or coffee and Portuguese pasteis de nata (custard tarts)" The Grazing Goat - overall score 5/10 (down 1)
Giles Coren - Times Choice quote: "Table style was the now ubiquitous rustic/diddy with food presented on an assortment of unnecessary chopping boards and Honey-I-Shrunk-the-Le-Creuset cast-iron potlets. I’d imagine that sort of thing is on the turn now, too – it’s all very autumn 2008." Kopapa - overall score 5.5/10 (no change)
Marina O'Loughlin - Metro Choice quote: "Daft and overblown it might occasionally be (descriptions require whole paragraphs) but each dish offers a small adventure." Zoe Williams - Telegraph Choice quote: "It's too patchy to recommend with confidence, but there are impressive elements." Restaurant at the Royal Academy - overall score 5/10 (down 0.5)
AA Gill - Times Choice quote: "The service was unfailingly jolly and helpful, if not altogether accurate. The room, with its thick pheromones of yearning and thwarted creativity, was pleasant. But the menu is making promises the kitchen isn’t up to keeping." Samarqand - overall score 5/10 (down 0.5)
Marina O'Loughlin - Metro Choice quote: "...the only way to approach this Marylebone newcomer is from the viewpoint of profligate diner and appreciator of all things delicious. From that perspective, Samarqand is a total bomb-out. Sorry." To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews. |
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