Restaurant review charts - week ending 19 December

Our latest bi-weekly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. Both Vinoteca and Brawn get excellent early reviews, Morito and Hawksmoor continue to get raves but the River Restaurant at the Savoy takes a beating from AA Gill...

Vinoteca Marylebone - overall score 8.5/10 (new entry)
Vinoteca

Susan Low - Time Out
6

Choice quote: "Of the five dishes we ordered, each went back to the kitchen with the plates practically licked clean."
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Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
8

Choice quote: "Chef Will Leigh — visible in the green-tiled open kitchen — espouses homely comfort food (pies a speciality) and the main course of roasted pork and butter beans with herb crumbs, served all of a jumble, fulfilled that definition in the best possible manner."
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John Gough - View London
10

Choice quote:"It’s busy because of its informal vibe coupled with serious attention to detail when it comes to wine, food and service."
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See all the Vinoteca Marylebone reviews

Brawn - overall score 8.5/10 (up 2.5)
Geales

Lisa Markwell - Independent
6

Choice quote: "Food of this quality at this price is rare indeed. I hope there's enough buzz to draw diners all through the week (hell, if I didn't live and work on the opposite side of London I'd be there every other day)."
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Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
6

Choice quote: "...(the) meal was thoughtfully sourced and in parts bewitching (from a menu that changes daily), was perfectly executed and served by un jeune homme sérieux at exactly the right pace."
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Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits
6

Choice quote: "...rather than simply being Terroirs' "little sister", Brawn is already shaping up to be a much more mature and accomplished operation."
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See all the Brawn reviews

Hawksmoor Seven Dials - overall score 8.5/10 (down 0.5)
Hawksmoor Seven Dials

John Lanchester - Guardian
8

Choice quote: "...if you love steak and live within striking distance of Covent Garden, the quality of your life just went up."
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Assaggi - overall score 8.5/10 (no change)
Assaggi

Robert Chalmers - Independent
8

Choice quote: "Assaggi delivers what its regulars expect: fine food with prices to match. This is, to be fair, not the most affordable area of London; the tables near us were occupied by parties from the broadcast media, who all knew each other. If you're paying for yourself, a trip to Assaggi is likely to be reserved for a special occasion."
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Morito - overall score 8/10 (no change)
Morito

Giles Coren - Times
9

Choice quote: "Not just the stand-out but the stand-up dish, as in stand up and applaud: for the fideos with prawns, saffron and aïoli, which are little inch-long strands of vermicelli-like pasta, cooked in a serious prawn stock and served with some lean, lithe little prawns and a splodge of fantastic, light, not-too-garlicky aïoli – is a perfect thing."
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See all the Morito reviews

The Savoy Grill - overall score 7.5/10 (up 0.5)
Savoy Grill

Gut Dimond - Time Out
8

Choice quote: "GRH has created a menu which nods to tradition, so as not to scare off the dowagers. It nods, but doesn't kowtow, because concessions are made to modernity - the separate vegetarian menu is an appealing read, for example."
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Tracey Macleod - Independent
8

Choice quote: "...given that this was lunch on the second day, this was an impressive performance, and already the room has the excitable hum of a successful restaurant."
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Trullo - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Trullo

Zoe Williams - Telegraph
6.5

Choice quote: "I wanted to say this place is what the phrase 'hit and miss' was invented for, but, after surveying the evidence, it was more like 'miss, hit, hit'. You might get lucky and skip the miss altogether."
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Le Cafe Anglais - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Le Cafe Anglai

Hermano Primero - Dos Hermanos
8

Choice quote: "Skirt Steak (Bavette) came as four bloody chunks and was full of good beefy flavour. A Béarnaise was textbook as were a bowl of hot, crisp frites."
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Wright Brothers Soho - overall score 7/10 (down 1)
Wright Bros Soho

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
8

Choice quote: "The Soho sibling, with dining space on three levels, is more accommodating and in many ways more appealing except for that attitude of many restaurants that the customer must fall in with our systems."
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Jay Rayner - Observer
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "Wright Brothers Soho is a welcome addition to the offerings in central London. It could be superb. But to become that it really does need to fine tune what it's doing."
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North Road - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
North Road

Jay Rayner - Observer
7
Estimated score

Choice quote: "Hruskova's cooking is about as close as you'll get to Redzepi's without buying a plane ticket, though to be honest it's still some way off the precision and acute sense of balance. It's good without having Redzepi's brilliance."
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Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

Choice quote: "Whether Hruskova likes it or not, piggybacking on a major trend isn’t a bad thing. And while his cooking isn’t as out-there as the greatest excesses, sorry, intricacies, of Redzepi, it works very well as a beginner’s guide to this most fascinating school of eating."
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Dishoom - overall score 6.5/10 (no change)
Dishoom

Zeo Williams - Telegraph
6
Choice quote: "Crisp, golden, insanely attractive, (lamb samosas) were everything that fast food wishes it could be but almost never is. The seasoning was just right – hot but not fierce – and so didn't need the tamarind and date chutney, nor the yogurty one, nor the house chilli chutney. All so delicious, though, that I piled them on anyway.
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Hakkasan Mayfair - overall score 6.5/10 (down 0.5)
Hakkasan Mayfair

Giles Coren - Times
6

Choice quote: "...once you arrive it’s almost exactly the same as the other one: a sort of futuristic, slatted lacquer and bamboo nightclub with tables, where Blade Runner meets Tenko but the catering is way better"
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Cassis Bistro - overall score 6/10 (new entry)
Cassis

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
4

Choice quote: "...(the) magret of duck, much loved by restaurants for ease of portion control, handling and slicing while symbolising something vaguely posh, that brought to mind many mediocre meals encountered in Michelin-starred restaurants in France."
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Leila Hawkins - View London
8

Choice quote: "Cassis offers the level of food and service one would expect from SW3, without the exorbitant prices."
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Kopapa - overall score 6/10 (new entry)
Le Cafe Anglai

Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits
6

Choice quote: "Trying to get an overall impression of a place from a shaky soft opening is difficult - and possibly rather unfair - but judging from dishes such as the marrowbone toast and the oysters I would like to think Kopapa could grow into an interesting and characterful restaurant in a location - Covent Garden - hardly blessed with a surplus of such places."
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Barbecoa - overall score 5.5/10 (new entry)
Barbecoa

John Walsh - Independent
5.5

Choice quote: "The war-zone aspect of Barbecoa is hard to love, but when it gets it right (as with the steak) you can forgive the slapdash approach to anything which isn't carnivore-related."
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Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

Choice quote: "I like most of the food a lot: crunchy, sticky ‘scratchings’ with an apple and mustard sauce; excellent pulled pork, a delicious, sweet-sour tangle of squidge and char with rich jalapeño cornbread and fresh, tart slaw."
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River Restaurant at the Savoy - overall score 4.5/10 (down 2.5)
River restaurant at the savoy

AA Gill - Sunday Times
2

Choice quote: "The whole restaurant, this menu, this twisting cook, the fussing, undertrained, oversolicitous, nervous staff, all show how far the Savoy has fallen from its grand panache."
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See all the River Restaurant at the Savoy reviews

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