Restaurant review charts - week ending 15 August

Every week we round up all the new London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics and add them to our reviews section. This week Goodman City gets off to a flying start, while Shaka Zulu and Amico Bio get a pasting...

 

Goodman, City - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Goodman, City

Kang Leung - London Eater
8
Estimated score

What did he think? Roomier than Mayfair equivalent, with steak cooked just as well.
Choice quote: "It is all a matter of personal preference really, and to be quite honest, these cuts of beef are at the very top end of what your money will buy, at least in London."
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Gauthier Soho - overall score 7.5/10 (up 0.5)
Gauthier Soho

Richard Vines - Bloomberg
8

What did he think? Great, polite service, Michelin style food, but portions a little on the small side.
Choice quote: "Each dish is beautifully composed, the elements as polite and harmonious as a string quartet or a performance by Justin Bieber. The word exquisite comes to mind."
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See all the Gauthier Soho reviews

Harwood Arms - overall score 7.5/10 (down 0.5)
Harwood Arms

Kang Leung - London Eater
7
Estimated score

What did he think? Middling service, but decent food - if not quite living up to its Michelin status.
Choice quote: "Just don’t expect to be bowled over with invention, it should be a case of familiar comfort food and perfectly awesome scotch eggs."
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Tinello - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Tinello

Hermano Primero - Dos Hermanos
6

What did he think? An average Italian that needs to loosen up a little to live up to its backers.
Choice quote: "There was uneven cooking which should be fixable if they care enough. It does feel, however like a Locatelli diffusion place, a bit restrained."
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Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
8

What did she think? An excellent restaurant all round which lives up to its backer, Locatelli.
Choice quote: "A main course of roasted fillet of cod with celeriac and anchovy sauce was a stunner. The sauce was a fine purée, possibly pushed through a sieve more than once, and the flavour pairing was masterful without being overpowering."
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See all the Tinello reviews

Amico Bio - overall score 6.5/10 (down 1)
Amico Bio

Zoe Williams - Telegraph
3

What did she think? Great service and building - terrible food.
Choice quote: "There was no spark of chilli, no depth of herbs, no flash of interest, nothing. B said he regretted the effort of masticating. It's definitely the first time I've ever heard him say that."
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Tempo - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Tempo

Richard Johnson - Independent
6

What did he think? Good service, but varied food from Japanese chef Yoshi Yamada.
Choice quote: "Food purists won't like the fact that – by pairing rabbit with pistachio, beef with hazelnuts and seabass with fennel – Yamada is breaking a few rules of Italian classicism. But hey. If we didn't break a few rules, we would still be grilling lumps of gristle over open fires."
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Dishoom - overall score 6/10 (down 1)
Dishoom

Jay Rayner - Guardian
4
Estimated score

What did he think? Has a feel of a suburban mid-market chain, food has a few bright spots but is too expensive to choose over a normal curry.
Choice quote: "As we discover when we eventually get to our banquette, there are some good things here, with the emphasis on the word "some". "
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Redhook - overall score 5.5/10 (down 0.5)
Redhook

Lucas Hollweg - Sunday Times
4

What did he think? Good building and design, but inconsistent and expensive food.
Choice quote: "But, again, my plateful was only good in parts, let down both by the langoustines, which were dry and dull and had been splashed with the same nondescript salsa as the lobster, and by a viciously salty béarnaise."
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See all the Redhook reviews


Shaka Zulu - overall score 3/10 (new entry)
Shaka Zulu

Guy Dimond - Time Out
4

What did he think? Over-the-top, terrible service, only OK food.
Choice quote: "The rice and sambals promised with the dish didn't materialise, and staff appeared inexperienced and ill trained."
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6y

Nick Curtis - Evening Standard
2

What did he think? Terrible service, bad food and an incomplete menu.
Choice quote: "Springbok, kudu and ostrich terrine was mouth-chillingly cold, the flavours muted compared to the bits of these gamey beasts I’ve eaten in Cape Town."
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See all the Shaka Zulu reviews

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