Sunday, 12 September 2010

Our latest and now bi-weekly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. This week Goodman City continues to get raves, while Tom's Kitchen gets off to a shaky start at Somerset House.

Goodman, City - overall score 9/10 (up 0.5)
Goodman, City

Timothy Barber - City AM
9
Estimated score

What did he think? Along with its Mayfair sibling, Goodman offers "the best steak to be had in London".
Choice quote: "It looked like one vast steak, but the differences were all in the taste – the sweet, buttery delights of the corn-fed American meat contrasted instantly with the soft, smoky earthiness of the Irish stuff, for instance."
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See all the Goodman, City reviews

Sushi of Shiori - overall score 8/10 (no change)
Sushi of Shiori

Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits
8

What did he think? His second favourite sushi in London.
Choice quote: "In this tiny room, with literally 8 seats in total for paying customers (3 at the bar, 5 at the window), you are served food painstakingly prepared to order by one chef, and served by his charming wife, and if you are lucky enough to have a seat at the bar you can watch the whole fascinating process up-close."
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See all the Sushi of Shiori reviews

Gauthier Soho - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Gauthier

John Lanchester - Guardian
7
Estimated score

What did he think? Very good cooking with plenty of added extras, but the setting is a bit too "sérieux".
Choice quote: "It felt like ambitious restaurants used to feel the last time I was doing this job back in 1995. What redeemed Gauthier Soho was the level of the cooking."
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See all the Gauthier Soho reviews

Tinello - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
Tinello

AA Gill - Sunday Times
6

What did he think? It has "very reasonable prices", the food is good although the menu was confusing at first and "list of main courses isn’t as exciting as the previous three".
Choice quote: "The linguine was slick and muscular. It was a come-again dish. As was the risotto, with prawns, made memorable by a pungent stock that tasted like it had been made out of the Little Mermaid’s thong."
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James Hanning - Independent
8

What did he think? Having previously found Locatelli too fussy, loved the food and pared back nature of Tinello.
Choice quote: "My "primo" is perhaps the most typical of the meal. The gnudi in salsa al pomodoro (spinach and ricotta with tomato sauce), made this morning, tastes as fresh as anything I have ever tasted."
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See all the Tinello reviews

Brasserie Joel - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Brasserie Joel

Andy Lynes - Metro
8

What did he think? Despite the standard hotel surroundings, Antunes is producing "some of the best classical French food in London".
Choice quote: "Antunes’s food might be better suited to a stylish, intimate Mayfair restaurant but I’d happily crawl over Westminster Bridge to eat it again."
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See all the Brasserie Joel reviews


The Capital restaurant - overall score 7/10 (up 0.5)
The Capital

Tony Turnbull - Times
8
Estimated score

What did he think? Classic French food, expertly cooked, but very, very expensive.
Choice quote: "Me, I had a simple omelette, with a green salad on the side. Oh, and lobster. And crab. And truffles. Like I say, peasant cuisine at its best."
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See all the Capital reviews

Polpetto - overall score 6.5/10 (no change)
Polpetto

John Walsh - Independent
6

What did he think? Loved the food, but confused by the tapas-style approach and ordered way too much - all arriving at the same time.
Choice quote: "I wondered if I'd ever complained before about a restaurant serving too much food – especially when most dishes were so well achieved."
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Hermano Primero - Dos Hermanos
6

What did he think? Slightly uneven cooking, but the best courses were very impressive and he preferred the lighter room to Polpo's.
Choice quote: "There was a bit of unevenness to the cooking but nothing disastrous or that wasn’t made up for by the other good stuff I had. In fact, in certain respects the cooking was better than my last visit to Polpo."
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See all the Polpetto reviews

Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room

Liz Hoggard - Evening Standard
8

What did she think? New Executive Chef Michael Paul champions British produce in a gallery restaurant up there with the best of them.
Choice quote: "...I’d climb over hot coals to taste the aubergine quiche with potato sorrel, watercress and chilli baked beans again. Melt-in-the-mouth pastry, with a delicate nutty filling (no hint of nasty cheesy additives), works beautifully with home-made baked beans, lightly spiced."
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See all the Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room reviews

Lupita- overall score 6/10 (new entry)
Lupita

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

What did she think? Liked the simple decor and the drinks, but the food needed more Mexican flavour.
Choice quote: "US expats and Mexicans in London constantly whinge we don’t have anything approximating the real thing in town. I hoped Lupita was going to fill the gap but it was ultimately a little disappointing."
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Guy Dimond - Time Out
8

What did he think? One of the better Mexicans, but the presence of drunken office workers doesn't help.
Choice quote: "Choose carefully and you can construct an interesting meal at Lupita. Choose drunkenly and you can have big helpings of well-made stodge to keep you going on the journey home."
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See all the Lupita reviews

Otto - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Otto

Guy Dimond - Time Out
6

What did he think? An interesting take on pizza, but service needs to improve in the latter stages of the evening.
Choice quote: "We're not sure the pizza purists would approve, but we enjoyed our toppings of vegan 'cashew cheese', and the roasted aubergine with blue cheese."
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See all the Otto reviews

Durius River Cafe - overall score 4/10 (new entry)
Durius River Cafe

David Sexton - Evening Standard
4

What did he think? Impressed with the selection and quality of the meats, less so with the mains (none of which are cooked). Shame about the restricted opening hours.
Choice quote: "The restricted opening hours mean that, great place to drink though this may be, it’s not a rendezvous for the evening."
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See all the Durius River Cafe reviews

Tom's Kitchen Somerset House - overall score 4/10 (new entry)
Tinello

Andrew Neather - Evening Standard
4

What did he think? Middling food that does not deserve its inflated prices.
Choice quote: "The food is ordinary, the place is neither beautiful nor comfortable, and you can eat better elsewhere for far less."
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See all the Tom's Kitchen - Somerset House reviews

To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews.

 
 

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