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Our latest fortnightly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. This week we see the first reviews for the Young Turks at the Ten Bells, plus more good reviews for Roganic, Ducksoup, Cut, Bread Street Kitchen and more...
Ducksoup - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Zoe Williams - Telegraph
Choice quote: "I then had the fritto misto with preserved lemons in batter... It took a very simple idea – 'find some nice seafood and fry it in batter, preferably in small pieces’ – and did it tremendously well and a little bit differently."
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See all the Ducksoup reviews
Roganic - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Giles Coren - Times
Choice quote: "Place not very diner-oriented. Dishes not really surprising enough. This level of atmospheric austerity rather demands quiet fireworks on the plate. Lot of money. 300."
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Zoe Williams - Telegraph
Choice quote: "I was fascinated, dazzled sometimes, although I didn't love everything I ate, any more than you could love everything you saw in a Gerhard Richter retrospective."
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See all the Roganic reviews
Amol Rajan - Independent
Choice quote: "The best steak I have ever eaten is not on my plate, but sitting across from me, an Australian wagyu costing £70. The first thing that strikes me is the rhombus shape; the second is the powerful, gamey aroma; and the third is the obvious tenderness as Dominic takes his knife to it."
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See all the Wolfgang Puck's Cut reviews
Euan Ferguson - Time Out
Choice quote: "The food we had was decent, although expensive. A starter of tuna with green beans, grilled onions and anchovies was punchy; another of tuna and salmon 'sashimi' had an overbearingly garlicky dressing."
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Mark O'Donnell - View London
Choice quote: "This little piggy may be new to this part of town, but with its slick new design, excellent food and drink menu and buzzing atmosphere, it’s already right at home."
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See all the Hampshire Hog reviews
Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
Choice quote: "I can’t, in all fairness, recommend somewhere that costs so much for a quite nice dinner – if you want to drop that kind of loot, you can get awesome elsewhere in London."
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See all the Northall reviews
John Lanchester - Guardian
Estimated score
Choice quote: "... my main impression was of overwhelming, oppressive loudness... That was a real pity, because the cooking was somewhere between very good and excellent, with the impeccable technique and attention to detail that characterise Ramsay's food"
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See all the Bread Street Kitchen reviews
Charmaine Mok - Time Out
Choice quote: "...we will sorely miss the crisp nuggets of buttermilk-marinated fried chicken dusted with fine pine salt; I suggest a petition to keep it as a staple on the menu."
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Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
Choice quote: "Both the slow-cooked soft ox cheek of the meaty course and the poached pear with honey granita in the dessert of chestnut mousse were topped with contrasting textures, something like Indian sev in the case of the ox cheek, seemingly pulverised brandy snap for the granita."
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See all the Young Turks reviews
AA Gill- Sunday Times
Choice quote: "I can’t remember the last time I ate so little in a restaurant. I’m not squeamish. I don’t mind chilli heat. I just have never been hungry enough to eat these repetitive plates of collapsing taupe mulch."
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See all the Manchurian Legends reviews
Fay Maschler- Evening Standard
Choice quote: "If anyone has nostalgic fondness for a dish, however much a cliché it might be, an altered or traduced version is going to have to struggle to impress."
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See all the Manchurian Legends reviews
Marina O'Loughlin - Metto
Choice quote: "Cooking is solid, modern British, rib-sticking and decently executed; fat puck of black pudding with wilted spinach, soft-poached egg and buttery thermidor sauce; a souped-up Benedict without the muffin."
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See all the Lady Ottoline reviews
ALSO REVIEWED
Bunga Bunga
Helena Lee - City AM: What would have been charming became try-hard kitch, and as the DJ spun Kings of Leon’s “sex on fire”, we felt as though we were coming to the end of the night at a batty uncle’s wedding.
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Eat Street King's Cross
Marina O'Loughlin - Metro: "I don’t have space to list all the vendors but, wherever you end up, you’ll be in for a pimped-up lunchtime, bursting with freshness and flavour – Eat St creams only the finest street fooders on to its roster."
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The Society Club 2 Ingestre Place, W1
Liz Hoggard - Evening Standard: "Not everyone will love The Society Club (it's just this side of pretentious; the boys are vainer than the girls; you leave spaced-out on a sugar rush), but personally I can't think of a better place for a first date."
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The Hansom Cab 84 Earls Court Road, W8
John Walsh - Independent: "I wanted to like The Hansom Cab but on its present showing the food isn't good enough, and the cooking not complex or subtle enough, to justify the absurd prices."
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To see how other restaurants are faring, view all our restaurant reviews.
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