Hot Dinners

Restaurant review charts - week ending 11 December

Our latest fortnightly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviewssection. This week we sees a host of new entries, including The Delaunay, Mishkin's, Soif, and Granger & Co.

The Delaunay - overall score 9/10 (new entry)
The Delaunay

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
10

Choice quote: "It is the consummate style, attention to detail, patience, comprehension of what people want and how they want it built up by Chris Corbin and Jeremy King over the 30 years since they bought Le Caprice in 1981 that has crystallised in this terrific new restaurant..."
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Kelly Hussey - View London
7

Choice quote: "Delaunay gets the balance right. Sophisticated without being pompous, it’s the ‘affordable’ option for doing quality in the capital."
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See all the Delaunay reviews

Chakra - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Chakra

Roopa Gulati - Time Out
8

Choice quote: "Minor gripes aside, the cooking was top drawer. On a week night the place was busy with well-heeled locals and out-to-impress couples. You might have to pay a Maharajah's ransom for a meal here, but it rivals feasts served by upmarket West End competitors."
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See all the Chakra reviews

Copita - overall score 7.5/10 (down 0.5)
Copita

Amol Rajan - Independent
7

Choice quote: "And what of the food? Ah, yes. Mostly it is excellent. Compared with some other tapas joints in central London – Polpo, Polpetto, Spuntino, Opera Tavern – it's cheap here, but still high in quality."
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See all the Copita reviews

Young Turks at the Ten Bells - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Young Turks at the Ten Bells

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

Choice quote: "I’d get down while you can: like a foodie version of the Sex Pistols at the 100 Club, one day we’ll all be saying we were there."
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See all the Young Turks reviews

Riding House Cafe - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Riding House Cafe

Zoe Williams - Telegraph
6

Choice quote: "It's all so well planned I want to give it a diploma; but I still have a nagging criticism, which is that it's trying to be everything to everyone, not only with its meal-time flexibility but with the actual cooking, and this prevents those moments of boldness, of culinary risk or simple street-food explosiveness that make you fall in love with a restaurant."
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See all the Riding House Cafe reviews

Granger & Co - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Granger & Co

Guy Dimond - Time Out
6

Choice quote: "Once the kitchen kinks are ironed out and the service is as sunny in the evening as it is in the day, we might have reason to be as smiley about this all-day, no-bookings brasserie as Mr Granger is himself."
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Kelly Hussey - View London
8

Choice quote: "As people tire of pomp and turn their backs on the crass nature of flash-the-cash eateries, places like Granger and Co fill the void with a focus on simple quality. A refreshing addition to the capital."
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See all the Granger & Co reviews

Ducksoup - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
Duck Soup

Matthew Norman - Telegraph
6

Choice quote: "“Great food, and the ideal restaurant for a bedraggled civil servant with artistic pretensions in 1948,” was my friend’s closing judgment, “but I wouldn’t come back.” There he spoke for this ageing buffer as well."
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Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

Choice quote: "Ducksoup is so perfectly a restaurant of today, from its easily Google-able name to its basic Tumblr website, that it’s verging on pastiche. It looks like a semi-permanent pop-up."
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See all the Ducksoup reviews

Union Jacks - overall score 6.5/10 (down 1.5)
Union Jacks

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

Choice quote: "I can’t imagine anyone disliking Union Jacks: it’s as eager-to-please as a Labrador puppy."
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Lisa Markwell - Independent
5

Choice quote: "I'm sorry, Jamie. But why not put pizza on at Jamie's Italian, then start a chain of British-themed restaurants with ploughman's and doorstop sandwiches and pies? *Helpful face*"
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Steve Dinneen - City AM
8

Choice quote: "The (flatbread) base was crafted to perfection, crispy on the surface and doughy underneath, with a hint of charcoal where the bread has risen in the wood-fired oven. It’s simple, tasty food – exactly the kind of thing Oliver is famous for creating."
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See all the Union Jacks reviews

Aurelia - overall score 6.5/10 (up 0.5)
Aurelia

Zoe Williams - Telegraph
6

Choice quote: "It's pricey and it's a bit mixed, and if you get it right it's wonderful, and even if not, it's fine."
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Tony Turnbull - Times
6
Estimated score

Choice quote: "... the food, delivered, as asked, course by course rather than dish by dish, was faultless. Better than faultless, actually, like watching a slide show of all your childhood holidays rolled into one and discovering they were even more sun-kissed and golden than you’d remembered."
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Tracey MacLeod - Independent
6

Choice quote: "Just how far we'd come from the meaty badlands was highlighted when our salt marsh leg of lamb (£21) arrived pre-carved into a fan of thin, pink-centred slices – we're ladies, we can't cut our own meat! – and drizzled with salmoriglio, this season's gremolata."
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See all the Aurelia reviews

Soif - overall score 6.5/10 (new entry)
Soif

John Walsh - Independent
6.5

Choice quote: "We left Soif feeling stuffed, but impressed by the gutsy intensity of the chef's cooking."
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David Sexton - Evening Standard
6

Choice quote: "...one way and another, for locals Soif is obviously a great addition to the neighbourhood, bound to be packed, at these fair prices. That we failed to enjoy our evening as much as we had expected perhaps should be put down partly to the location and atmosphere, as well as the heavy cooking."
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See all the Soif reviews

Mishkin's - overall score 6/10 (new entry)
Mishkin's

Susan Low - Time Out
4

Choice quote: "The atmosphere and attitude at Mishkin's left us feeling processed, rather than nourished - as you often do in chain restaurants."
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Laura Moss - View London
8

Choice quote: "It’s fun, it’s glam, the food fills both you and a gap in the market, and the prices aren’t exactly extortionate."
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See all the Mishkin's reviews

34 - overall score 6/10 (new entry)
34

AA Gill - Sunday Times
4

Choice quote: "I had the now-ubiquitous wagyu sirloin, which I ordered rare, and came medium, verging on well done. It was the only thing that was well done."
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Stephen Farmer - View London
8

Choice quote: "This is a steakhouse for the well-to-do, and it’ll no doubt thrive for that very reason."
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See all the 34 reviews

The 10 Cases - overall score 5.5/10 (down 0.5)
The 10 Cases

Jay Rayner - Observer
5
Estimated score

Choice quote: "10 Cases is a brilliant idea for a restaurant; it just needs better food."
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See all the 10 Cases reviews


ALSO REVIEWED

Mama Lan

Andrew Neather - Evening Standard: "To a Western palate more accustomed to Cantonese or Szechuan food, this is a different, heartier set of flavours. Designed to ward off the long, cold Beijing winter, it felt right for a late autumn day."
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