Restaurant review charts - week ending 09 January

Our latest bi-weekly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. Brawn's earlier raves are brought down to earth with some more average reviews, Morito scores another hit - as does Les Deux Salons, while Kopapa divides the critics...

Morito - overall score 8/10 (no change)
Morito

John Lanchester - Guardian
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "The cooking is excellent and the list of hits I had was almost as long as the list of dishes I tried – and it was a long list..."
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See all the Morito reviews

The Savoy Grill - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Savoy Grill

Giles Coren - Times
6

Choice quote: "My friend Matt had roasted and butter-poached partridge with a delightful wee partridge turnover. We had a half bottle of gewürtz, a bottle of Pomerol and a generally okay time."
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Richard & Peter - Harden's
7
Estimated score

Choice quote: "...if you’re simply looking for a good meal in the heart of the West End, you’re unlikely to do much better than here."
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Matthew Norman - Telegraph
9

Choice quote: "My lobster bisque, with a generous layer of lobster chunks at the bottom, was creamy, intense and startlingly good."
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See all the Savoy Grill reviews

Brawn - overall score 7.5/10 (down 1)
Geales

Richard & Peter - Harden's
6
Estimated score

Choice quote: "Brawn is just as good (as Terroirs). If anything, we prefer its laid-back vibe (and, for the moment at least, it has the benefit of the primary attentions of the original team). But this is not a style of cuisine that’s every going to be worth crossing town for..."
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Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
6

Choice quote: "...it’s perfectly nice. Not brilliant, not swoonworthy, not knocking any socks off this particular punter. Am I missing something?"
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See all the Brawn reviews

Les Deux Salons - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Les Deux Salons

John Lanchester - Guardian
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "One stand-out dish is a starter of snail and bacon pie. If there were a food award for Best Transgressive Oversize Vol-Au-Vent, it would go to this bad boy, not least because of the lavish white sauce inside – 1970s heaven."
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See all the Les Deux Salons reviews

Cigalon - overall score 7.5/10 (up 0.5)
Cigalon

Marina O'Loughlin - Metro
8

Choice quote: "As we mash our way through the menu, dish after dish arriving on faux-pewter platters, there isn’t an off note."
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North Road - overall score 7/10 (no change)
North Road

Anon - City AM
8

Choice quote: "The food at North Road – by Danish chef Christoffer Hruskova, who has worked around the world and also runs Islington favourite Fig Bistro – is precise, colourful, imaginative and light. And it’s frankly refreshing to eat several courses and not feel as though you’d sink a boat were you to step on board."
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See all the North Road reviews

Hakkasan Mayfair - overall score 7/10 (up 0.5)
Hakkasan Mayfair

AA Gill - Sunday Times
8

Choice quote: "I do think it’s good. I’d probably like it more if I were 20 years younger, and single."
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Theo Randall at the Intercontinental - overall score 6.5/10 (down 0.5)
Theo Randall at the Intercontinental

Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits
5

Choice quote: "...I can't help that right now, in 2010, although perfectly decent, Theo Randall is playing second fiddle to Polpo/Polpetto, Zucca, Trullo and (though I'm yet to visit myself) Tinello, and the fact is there is better food out there, and for less."
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Cassis Bistro - overall score 6.5/10 (up 0.5)
Cassis

Guy Dimond - Time Out
8

Choice quote: "Cassis is less the dark, conservative shade of blue that appeals to Michelin inspectors; it's more that fruitier, purple shade of emperor's robes."
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See all the Cassis Bistro reviews

Sake No Hana - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Sake No Hana

Zoe Williams - Telegraph
6

Choice quote: "The devil's in the ordering, basically. I would vouch with my whole heart, on my mother's life etc, for the sushi and sashimi."
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Kopapa - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Le Cafe Anglai

Tracey MacLeod - Independent
6

Choice quote: "Kopapa may not be beautiful, and it may not be particularly on-trend, but there's something informal and youthful about the place which sets it apart from all the tasteful new arrivals."
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Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
4

Choice quote: "Peter Gordon has said in defence of fusion food “if it tastes good, it works”. Not enough worked at our dinner and at lunch a few days later — different tapas and one butternut squash and chickpea soup with samphire, orange labneh and caramelised peanuts to share — we struggled to find enthusiasm for anything tried."
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Guy Dimond - Time Out
8

Choice quote: "...for the bungee jump of flavours and textures that is Peter Gordon's cooking, Kopapa is unmissable."
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See all the Kopapa reviews

To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews.



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