Sunday, 05 December 2010

Our latest bi-weekly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviews section. Wright Bros Soho gets another rave review as North Road and Hakkasan Mayfair start out strong, while the new Savoy Grill gets a cautious thumbs up. But things aren't going as well for Jamie Oliver's Barbecoa or Dumpling's Legend...

Bocca Di Lupo - overall score 8.5/10 (no change)
Bocca Di Lupo

Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits
9

Choice quote: "More than anywhere else, Bocca di Lupo reminds me of St John - bold and creative cooking, using interesting ingredients in exciting new ways, on the one hand mindful of the noble traditions of (in this case) Italian cuisine and on the other forging exciting new paths into pastures unknown."
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See all the Bocca Di Lupo reviews

Hawksmoor Seven Dials - overall score 8.5/10 (down 0.5)
Hawksmoor Seven Dials

Tracey MacLeod - Independent
8

Choice quote: "Hawksmoor's steaks are often called the best in London, and Charlie's sirloin, a hefty, bone-in slab, lived up to that billing. The Josper charcoal grill gives a deep, smoky char, but inside the flesh is rosily pink and full of flavour."
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David Sexton - Evening Standard
6

Choice quote: "The problem with steaks, though, is that after the first blast, there’s just more of the same, until you’re sated. It’s animal appetite it serves, not gastronomy. But for that, Hawksmoor sure hits the spot."
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See all the Hawksmoor Seven Dials reviews

Roux at the Landau - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
roux-landau

Richard & Peter - Harden's
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "That’s not to say that there is anything startling about the cuisine: it’s just that everything was done at least well, and often very well."
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See all the Roux at the Landau reviews

Wright Brothers Soho - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Wright Bros Soho

Time Out Editors - Time Out
8

Choice quote: "Order carefully and simply, and you'll do well here. Most people will be popping in for the very central location, the excited buzz and the appealing drinks list..."
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See all the Wright Brothers Soho reviews

Dock Kitchen - overall score 8/10 (no change)
Dock Kitchen

Kang Leung - London Eater
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "I’m glad Dock Kitchen is totally anchored now, and am hoping it will stay that way for a while, because I think Steve Parle is a genius. The man is still so young... but his cooking is already oh so brilliant, there is still so much time ahead of him to evolve as a chef."
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See all the Dock Kitchen reviews

North Road - overall score 7.5/10 (new entry)
North Road

Fay Maschler - Evening Standard
6

Choice quote: "Dorset brill with stewed salsify and herb oil was utterly delicious and proof of what I think, which is that there is quite a lot to be said for this neutered, purse-lipped, Nordic approach once we cease to compare it to the symbolic warmth and sexiness of the much more familiar Mediterranean tradition."
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Guy Dimond - Time Out
8

Choice quote: "North Road doesn't serve New Nordic Cusine, but it's as close as we've seen so far in London."
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Hermano Primero - Dos Hermanos
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "A small fillet of baby cow was pink and delicious as was a roundel of the braised and shredded tail, the whole topped with shreds of Veal breast. I may have got the last two bits mixed up but in any case it was terrific cooking."
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See all the North Road reviews

Les Deux Salons - overall score 7.5/10 (no change)
Les Deux Salons

Giles Coren- Times
8

Choice quote: "...I had the best cassoulet that I have ever… well, I’ve had a lot of good cassoulets. But this was a blinder. Served in a frying pan, the huge beans soft but still shapely and with no chew at all, as if each one had been meticulously skinned, the juices light and herby."
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See all the Les Deux Salons reviews

The English Pig - overall score 7.5/10 (up 0.5)
English Pig

Giles Coren - Times
8

Choice quote: "...there is the “slow roast pork roll” made from all the trimmings tossed in a warm, crispy-soft bun with a bit of apple and unquestionably the best sandwich I have had this century."
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See all the English Pig reviews

Hakkasan Mayfair - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Hakkasan Mayfair

Charmaine Mok - Time Out
6

Choice quote: "We enjoyed the simpler items the most - benchmark har gau dumplings were plump and fresh, if unconventionally large, while xiao long bao had thin, delicate wrappers and a rich porky broth, though none of the flavours of the advertised dried scallop."
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Zoe Strimpel - City AM
8
Estimated score

Choice quote: "The main requirement for Chinese food is “xia fan” which means, poorly translated, “goes well with rice” – no complaints there. And, as my friend admitted, Hakkasan delivered well on the sixth taste, umami, which is a particularly delicious type of savouriness and a crucial part of Chinese cooking."
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See all the Hakkasan Mayfair reviews

Polpetto - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Polpetto

John Lanchester - Guardian
7
Estimated score

Choice quote: "It's not the subtlest or most delicate cooking in the world. Chilli and garlic prawns were too gloopy for me, and pigeon saltimbocca a bit rough. But... the value is so good, you don't mind."
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See all the Polpetto reviews

The Glasshouse - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
The Glasshouse

Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits
7

Choice quote: "It's a comfortable and comforting place to spend an evening, the friendly staff and good food combining into a big soft embrace of a restaurant, and it does, at least, deserve both the Michelin star and the custom from happy locals... that has sustained it in this spot for over a decade."
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See all the Nizuni reviews

The Savoy Grill - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Savoy Grill

David Sexton - Evening Standard
6

Choice quote: "Braised hare came two ways — discs of the saddle lightly roasted, leaving most of the meat quite red and rare, mixed with pieces of leg, taken off the bone and cooked until soft and dark, in a stickily reduced red wine sauce: accomplished, fussy cooking."
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Stephen Farmer - View London
7.5

Choice quote: "...Gordon Ramsay’s Savoy Grill certainly looks befitting of its famous host, with food that just about manages to match the impressive setting."
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See all the Savoy Grill reviews

Tempo - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Tempo

Giles Coren - Times
7

Choice quote: "Four of us troughed through some gorgeous crostini – of shrimp, garlic and cavolo nero; dense, red, sticky nduja sausage; and lentils and pancetta – which were crisp and light but heavily flavoured and perfectly seasoned."
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See all the Tempo reviews

Bar Battu - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Bar Battu

Zoe Williams - Telegraph
6.5

Choice quote: "...opening bars of mediocrity reached crescendo in the main courses. T had the cod (on salsify, which was braised and buttery and pretty nice, with a broth of clams, and they were good, too. The fish itself, though, was disappointing; the flesh crumbled in dry shreds rather than flaking silkily."
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See all the Bar Battu reviews

Geales Chelsea Green - overall score 6/10 (no change)
Geales

Matthew Norman - Telegraph
7

Choice quote: "The manager had congratulated my friend for requesting haddock and chips with the words: “I don’t normally do this, but that’s a very good order.” My friend was thrilled... and almost as chuffed with the dish itself."
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See all the Geales Chelsea Green reviews

Brawn - overall score 6/10 (new entry)
Geales

Hermano Primero - Dos Hermanos
6
Estimated score

Choice quote: "It does seem to me that places predicated on their wine just can’t get the hang of this cooking lark and so it proved at Brawn. Having said that it’s a pleasant, relaxed place for a drink..."
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See all the Brawn reviews

Barbecoa - overall score 5/10 (down 0.5)
Barbecoa

Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits
3

Choice quote: "I'd hesitate to dismiss the whole operation, as the front of house staff were really doing a great job and can't be held responsible for sourcing decisions made further up the chain, but I left Barbecoa with the impression that this was cheap food, cooked easily, marked up for a credulous city crowd, and served with the ever-present crutch of Oliver's popular branding."
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Richard & Peter - Harden's
6

Choice quote: "When it finally arrived, the food was pretty good. A hearty cuisine-grand-mère–ish dish of pulled beef, for example, was thoroughly satisfying, and a huge bone-in steak was very decent too."
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See all the Barbecoa reviews

Dumplings' Legend - overall score 5/10 (new entry)
Dumplings' Legend

Marinia O'Loughlin - Metro
6

Choice quote: "Dumplings’ Legend (love that apostrophe) bills itself as ‘innovative dim sum cooking in the heart of Chinatown!’ but there’s nothing dangerously nouveau about it (unless you count deep-frying the conventionally steamed prawn har gau to rather positive effect)."
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Bill Buckley - View London
4

Choice quote: "...the room is modern, bright and minimal, and some of the food is pretty good. For the prices charged, however, more consistency, both culinary and in terms of service, should be expected."
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See all the Dumplings' Legend reviews

To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews.

 
 

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